Saturday, May 28, 2022

The Wines of Puglia

 



Locorotondo

Puglia





The WINES of PUGLIA


Long and narrow, this Mediterranean region is what dreams are made of. A delightfully warm climate, beautiful green landscapes, stunning architecture, and majestic views of the Ionian and Adriatic Seas complement the region’s extremely fertile soils and vast sea life, making Puglia home to some of Italy’s best food and wine. It is also a leading region in olive oil production, accounting for almost half of Italy’s overall production. 


THE TERROIR OF PUGLIA

The regions richly fertile soils and beautiful climate make it a no-brainer as an option for growing grapes. Puglia has a relatively hot and dry climate that’s tempered by cool breezes from the surrounding water, resulting in expressive and delicious wines. The incredibly diverse geography of the region produces wines that are endlessly varied in terroir. Puglia currently has 29 DOC and 4 DOCG wine regions, mostly concentrated in the Salento region at the very heel of Italy’s boot.

Over the past few years, Puglia has gone through some major changes in the quality of their wines due to caring producers and new regulations. Once quantity focused, the region now has winemakers who want to show the world how amazing Apulian wines can be.

If you love Italian wines, this is definitely the region to keep your eyes on.  Look no further than this list for a foundation in major Apulian vino! While this list isn’t exhaustive as there are many grape varieties found in the region, these are the major grapes you will come across when you first dive into the beautiful world of Pugliese glou-glou!


RED WINE

Red is king in Puglia. There can be few people who haven’t tasted a rich red Primitivo with soft tannins and plush fruit or a structured, ageworthy Negroamaro in the guise of Salice Salentino or Copertino. The more adventurous may have also tried Puglia’s third black grape, Uva di Troia, also known as Nero di Troia, perhaps from the more northerly Castel del Monte region. You may also have sampled some Puglian rosato, maybe from Negroamaro or the rare, local Bombino Nero, quite possibly descendants of half-made red wines. In fact, there is a real tradition of rosato in the south of Italy; in the past, in the heat of the mezzogiorno, it was often difficult to macerate black grapes long enough on their skins to produce red wine without the scorching temperatures resulting in a stuck fermentation and quite possibly then a rosato. Incidentally, Primitivo also makes an excellent rosato base, with great concentration thanks to its deep colour. I even tried some rosato from one of the world’s rarest grapes, Susumaniello.

Red wines are the bread and butter of Puglia, making up most of the region’s wine.  If you like fruit forward, full red wines then this is the region for you!  And rosé fans? Many of these grapes make some of the best rosés in Italy as well!

Puglia, also known as Apulia, is the land of voluptuous reds made with indigenous varieties. The three most important red grapes are Negroamaro, Primitivo and Uva di Troia (also known as Nero di Troia). Negroamaro is the most widely grown grape in the region and it is used to make some of the region’s best wines, including the budget-friendly and rustically delicious Salice Salentino. Primitivo delivers deep-colored wines with ripe berry, spicy notes, and refreshing acidity. Fun fact, Primitivo is the same grape variety as California’s Zinfandel, native to the Dalmatian coast of Croatia. Look for Primitivo di Manduria and Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale DOCG, a sweet wine, as they are luscious examples of this grape. Uva di Troia makes the powerful, robust Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva DOCG.


NEGROAMARO

The name Negroamaro means “black bitter” in Italian.  The grapes are in fact quite dark in color, and wines made from Negroamaro will typically have a distinct bitter profile.  The grape is well suited to Puglia’s climate with its thick skins and drought resistant nature. Many Apulian rosés are typically made from Negroamaro.

Wine Profile:  Ruby-Violet in color.  Aromas of red cherry, tobacco, and licorice that transition into black pepper, prune, and herbaceous notes with age.  Flavors typically of ripe blackberry and tobacco. Full bodied with soft tannin. This wine is best between 3-7 years old but can be had with up to 10 years of age.  It can be drunk at room temperature, but a slight chill is also pleasantly refreshing.


PRIMITIVO

Primitivo is the same grape as California Zinfandel.  The name means “early ripening” in old Italian, a name true to its typically early harvest in August.  The grape is less robust than Negramaro, being sensitive to drought, high temperatures, and frost. Primitivo has a naturally high sugar content and its wine was traditionally praised for its high alcohol content (it can reach upward to 18% ABV!).  The intense aromatics have garnered Primitivo popularity in modern times.

Primitivo displays aromas of sour and Black Cherry as well as Raspberry.  Taste is jammy black fruit with low acidity and moderate tannin as long as it sees a little barrel time. The wine is usually Big & Bold.


NERO d' TROI

This black skinned grape is perfectly at home in the northern part of Puglia, especially Foggia and northern Bari.  This late-ripening variety has two growing styles: large berry, tight cluster which is suitable for high yields, and small berry, loose cluster which is suited for high quality.  The relatively high astringency of the grape makes it common in red blends.




SUSUMANIELLO

Ruggero di Bardo


SUSUMANIELLO

Susumaniello is a little-known red-wine grape from Puglia, southern Italy. Grown almost exclusively in the Salice Salento area, and in a tiny number of vineyards around Brindisi, it ranks among the world's rarest wine grapes.




Drinking Some VERDECA


VERDECA

Verdeca is a white grape grown almost exclusively in Puglia but is slowly falling out of favor in the wine world.  It is a very neutral flavored grape and historically was most commonly used in vermouth production. Now it is typically found in blends. But don’t count Verdeca out! It’s very easy drinking and refreshing with notes of citrus, pineapple, and bergamot.

Vedeca usually displays mineral notes in the palate, as well as a bit of herbal notes and citrus flavors. 


LOCOROTONDO DOC

Locorotondo will be a fun revelation for any wine lover, but in particular for those who are drawn to lean and flinty whites. One sip will sail you to the Adriatic coast, where the sea is turquoise blue, the Olive Groves are Ancient, and the Fish is so fresh it hops from the water to your plate. A blend of co-planted Verdeca, Bianco d’Alessano, and Minutolo—an indigenous, aromatic variety only recently recovered from the brink of extinction—epitomizes the richness of local Italian heritage. It’s zesty and cleansing, with just a spritz of orange blossom.

Locorotondo DOC is a dry white wine, made from the rarely seen Verdeca grape (50-60%) and Bianco d’Alessano (30-50%), Fiano and/or Bombino, Malvasia Toscana (0-5%). The wine is grown around the city of Locorotondo, in the Itria Valley.

Often, Locorotondo DOC is perceived as the best Apulian white wine and undoubtedly, it has great qualities: a pleasant, subtle and fruity taste, with an almond-like aftertaste, which makes it excellent for fish dishes.

The color is light straw green and if the wine originates from certain producers, including the local CS Cooperativa Locorotondo, its quality is truly exceptional.  Unfortunately, some producers make almost tasteless versions of this glorious white wine.

A nice sparkling wine with these same grapes (Verdeca, Bimbino Bianco & Alessano) is produced in Locorotondo as Locorotondo Spumante DOC. It is gaining in popularity as more and more tourist visit Puglia each year.





Bombino Bianco

At Regionale Wine Bar

Alberobello, Puglia



Bombino Bianco

Bombino Bianco is an easy growing, resistant grape varietal with high yields.  Though typically blended with red grapes or used in sparkling wines, Bombino Bianco can be found in still wines on its own.  Unlike many wine varieties, it is also used to make raisins.

Wine Profile: Color is lemon yellow with hints of pale green.  This is a very neutral and subtle grape that can sometimes express soft citrus fruit and floral notes with touches of minerality.



Greco Bianco

This grape reportedly has Greek origins and has an incredibly long history of over 2500 years.  It is genetically similar to the variety Asprinio. The late maturing Greco Bianco is almost always used in a blend with other Apulian varieties, though a passito dessert wine called Greco di Bianco can also be made in Calabria.


FALANGHINA

Of Greek origins, Falanghina arrived in Italy through the landings of the Greeks on the shores of the Gargano, then it spread and affirmed in Campania region too.





A WINE BAR in ALBEROBELLO

PUGLIA






FRANZ & HEIDI

Enjoying Tasty Puglian Wine

REGIONALE WINE BAR

ALBEROBELLO

PUGLIA






Italian Cookbook Author

Daniel Bellino Zwicke

Good Times with The Owner

Of Regionale Wine Bar

"Mimo"

ALberobello







POSITANO The AMALFI COAST 

TRAVEL GUIDE / COOKBOOK








"ANTICO"

LOCOROTONDO BIANCO

In ALBEROBELLO

VERDECA & BOMBINO BIANCO







Author Daniel Bellino Zwicke

Alberobello

Puglia

2022






LOCOROTONDO BIANCO

RIVERA

(Verdeca & Bianca d' Alessano)


This wine sure was tasty. This was the first wine I drank inside of the town of Locorotondo itself. 
I got off the bus from ALberobello, and made my way up the hill from the bus stop. Halfway up I came across a little wine bar, so I stopped in to use the bathroom and get something to drink. The girl gave me this wine, Locorotondo Bianco from Rivera, made with local Verdeca and Bianca d' Alessano grapes. The wine was lovely, clean crispy and fresh. I was on my way.

I walked around a bit, and then I had to find a good place for lunch.  I came upon the Ristorante Braceria and settle on that. People were sitting outside, and nobody was inside. They didn't have any more tables outside but I didn't mind. I was the only one eating inside. It was quite nice and I settled in. I asked for a glass of Locorotondo Bianca, and the waitress poured me some of the Antica Locorotondo Bianca I had the other night, when I had dinner in Alberobello.

I ordered the antipasti misti and a little while later the watress brought me some Eggplant Parmigiana, Chicoria, and the best Fiore d' Zuccca (Zucchini Flowers) I've ever had. "Damn they were tasty." The Zucchini Flowers were stuffed with Ricotta and topped with some of the local Pecorino. They were baked and not fried as they usually are. The Pecorino got really crunchy, and these Zucchini FLowere tasted oh so good. The Chicoria was mixed with Pecorino too, and a bit of eggs to bind everything together. Another great dish. And I was enjoying my glass of local wine as I ate my tasty antipasto. The Eggplant was good, but not mind blowing. Nothing as good as my dear Aunt Fran used to make. 





My Antipasto Misti

Fiore di Zucca, Chicoria, e Melanzane Parmigiana



It was quite nice sitting in this calm peaceful restaurant in Locorotondo. Nice music, good food, tasty local wine and I was in heaven. My Orecchiette came. I'm sorry to say, it wasn't that good. Neither the sauce nor the little meatballs were good at all. Hardly any taste, and quite a bit disappointment to tell you the truth.  Luckily the ambiance was great, excellent wine, the Fiore d' Zucca, so delicious and the Chicoria was superb, that these other elements made up for the very mediocre Orecchiette. "What are you going to do?"






CASA NOVA RISTORANTE

ALBEROBELLO, PUGLIA







GRIGLIATA MISTI al CAS NOVA

ALBEROBELLO

PORK SHOULDER, SAUSAGES, & BOMBETTE







CASA NOVA RISTORANTE

ALBEROBELLO







CASA NOVA HOUSE AMARO







MY TRULLO

ALBEROBELLO

PUGLIA









NONNA BELLINO'S COOKBOOK

"RECIPES FROM MY SICILIAN NONNA"













LUNCH with TONY & DEBBIE

GRIGILIATA MISTI

CISTERNINO, PUGLIA




"MEAT" !!!

La LANTERNA MACCERLERIA

CISTERNINO





Susumaniello with Lunch

La Lanterna

Cisternino, Italy









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