Monday, January 6, 2025

Chianti Primer

 



CHAINTI

OLD VINTAGES From My FRIENDS

SEBASTIANO CAPPONI - VILLA CALCINAIA CHIANTI 1969

LUIGI CAPPELLINI - CASTEL VERRAZZANO CHAINTI 1969




IL BAND dei VINI di COSIMO III


The Grand Duke Cosimo Medici III proclaims a decree to define the zone where wine could be produced in the Chianti Region of Tuscany in The Year 1716 on September 24th of the year. This edict can be rightfully considered as the World's 1st Territorial Designation of wine, anywhere in the World, and setting forth Quality Controls and Guarantees of Quality to the consumer of these wines. 

This was the announcement of the "Declaration of The Borders off the Four Regions of Chianti : Domino, Rufina, Carmignano, and Val di Arne di Sopra, in which the boundaries of the areas within which which the aforementioned wines could be produced were specified. 

This provision establishes the fundamental principal of each subsequent Protected & Controlled Designation of Origin, that is, the essential correspondence between a denomination and the production territory.

It must be said that the Grand Duke, two months earlier on July 18, 1716 had issued a proclamation establishing a Congregation that would would have to control the wines "Which are Committed to Sailing" that is suitable to travelling by Sea, always Carmignano, Domino, Rufina, and Chianti Val di Arno di Sopra.

The Congregation had to ensure that the wines were not tampered with or adulterated during the journey, as they were considered important for the "Decorum of The Nation" (the nation being Florence). 

In practice, Cosimo III created the historical precursors of the current Consortia. The Congregations had in fact the purpose of checking that the production standards required to obtain the denomination, established in the same provision, were respected. The decree establishing the Supervisory Congregations can therefore be considered by right, together with territorial delimitations notice, the first true production specifications in history. 

to conclude the discussion on the first DOC in history, we must remember that, in memory and pride of this right of primogeniture over all other denominations in the World, however prestigious, the "Coat of Arms" of Chianti Classico, featuring the traditional Black Rooster bears the words "Since 1716". For everlasting memory.








Consorzio Chianti Classico Nowadays


So, at over 300 years old, today’s production of Chianti Classico DOCG still contains minimum 80% Sangiovese along with maximum 20% native grapes –Canaiolo, Colorino– or international varieties –Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon. The denomination is limited exclusively to roughly 180, 000 acres at the very heart of Tuscany covering 4 entire municipalities – Castellina in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, Greve in Chianti and Radda in Chianti; and parts of five other municipal territories –  Barberino Val d’Elsa, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Poggibonsi, San Casciano Val di Pesa and Tavarnelle Val di Pesa.


To this day, the Consorzio Chianti Classico, the association counting over 180 wine estates and nearly 700 DOCg wines – some 96% of production– continues to protect and promote the territory’s iconic wines and culture. Two ways they have revamped Chianti Classico’s image and helped boost sales are through showcases like the trendy Enoteca in the Mercato Centrale, just steps from Florence’s Duomo, or Cathedral, and the Casa Chianti Classico, in the converted Franciscan Monastery of Santa Maria del Prato at Radda in Chianti near Siena, with its charming restaurant, museum, conference facilities and wine shop.


Chianti Classico embraces a huge variety of estates and exceptional quality wines with major players like Antinori, Barone Ricasoli, Banfi,  Cecchi, Rocca delle Macìe, Ruffino to name a few, meaning the sky really is the limit here. But let’s look now at three perhaps less well-known wines with a few common features. All three of these Chianti Classico DOCG reds hail from small boutique wineries, and received top ratings for their 2013 Riserva or Gran Selezione.







GALLO NERO




STORY of The BLACK ROOSTER



Throughout Tuscany wine bottles and many a restaurant feature a black rooster, the famed 'Gallo nero', a marketing logo with a history that stretches back to the Middle Ages.

Legend has it that the Black Rooster, initially signifying the whole of the Chianti and now indicating the Chianti Classico region, was chosen for the following reason: 

In the Middle Ages when Siena and Florence were fierce rivals and wished to locate the boundary between them, it was decided that two knights would set out on horseback from their respective hometowns at cockcrow and where they met would be the boundary. 


BLACK vs. WHITE


The Sienese chose a beautiful white rooster, raised sleek and fat with the idea that it would loudly wake their knight at dawn; the Florentines, on the other hand, provided their knight with an underfed black rooster. On the day of the race, the black rooster was so hungry he began to crow even before sunrise, causing the knight to set out much earlier than his counterpart, whom he met at Fonterutoli, near Castellina in Chianti – a mere 12 km fron Siena. In this way, almost all of the Chianti was under the role of the Florentine Republic and the black rooster much celebrated.







CHIANTI CLASSICO - MAP


Wines labelled “Chianti” can come from a vast region within Tuscany, from the foothills of the Appenines to the flatter plains. For some of the best expressions of Sangiovese, you need to look into higher elevations. 

The original boundaries of Chianti, where wines are made in smaller quantities and of higher quality, come from Chianti Classico DOCG. These wines tend to age well. The best wines from Chianti Classico will be labelled as Riserva or Gran Selezione.

Within the larger DOCG of Chianti there are seven sub-zones:

  • Colli Senesi
  • Colline Pisane
  • Colli Aretini
  • Montalbano
  • Montespertoli
  • Rufina
  • Colli Fiorentini





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WHAT is CHAINTI ???


The main grape used in Chianti is Sangiovese. It is a thin-skinned variety and, therefore, makes pale-colored wines.

In the glass, Sangiovese is ruby red with flashes of bright burnt orange — a hue commonly associated with aged wines.

Besides Sangiovese, Chianti wines may contain wine grapes like Canaiolo, Colorino, Cabernet Sauvignon, and even Merlot. White grapes were once allowed in Chianti Classico, but not anymore.

The best example of Chianti is a visceral tasting experience. Imagine the smells as you walk through an Italian grocery store: at the entrance, there’s a bowl of preserved sour Amarena cherries. You walk under bunches of dried oregano, past a wall of dark, aromatic balsamic vinegar, and then pass a counter where dry salami is being sliced. At the bar, dark espresso drips into a ceramic tazza. A whisper of sweet tobacco wafts in the door from an old man’s pipe outside.

Chianti smells and tastes like Italy. There will be a little coarseness and tartness on the palate, but these aren’t flaws; they are classic characteristics of Sangiovese.





Aging & Classifications of Chianti

As Sangiovese (Chianti’s main grape) grows, it becomes savory, loses color, and softens its tannins. But only the best wines can age over a long period of time. Here are some labelling terms that you might see on either Chianti or Chianti Classico wines.

  • Chianti: Aged for 6 months. Young, simple, tart, and fresh.
  • Superiore: Aged for a year. Slightly bolder wines with smoother tannin.
  • Riserva: Aged for 2 years. Usually, the top wines of a Chianti producer. These will normally have some oak aromas, such as vanilla or spice.
  • Gran Selezione: Aged for at least 2.5 years (only found in Chianti Classico). Some of the most sought after wines in Tuscany with intense tannins, flavors, and aromas ranging from dried cherry, smoke, balsamic, and leather aromas.



Sunday, January 5, 2025

Secret Recipe Ragu Bolognese

 




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Friday, January 3, 2025

Arigo Cipriani Harrys Bar Venice

 





ARIGO CIPRIANI

HARRY'S BAR

VENICE









ARIGO CIPRIANI on HARRY'S BAR

VENICE







HARRY'S BAR









HARRY'S BAR

VENICE








ARIGO CIPRIANI

Interview in ITALIAN









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Amarone Bertani

 




"BERTANI"

AMARONE della VALPOLICELLA








A Day at BERTANI


Bottega del Vino Verona

 



Inside BOTTEGA del VINO

VERONA









LUCA DUSI

At BOTTEGA del VINO






At The BOTTEGA del VINO

VERNONA, ITALY

With FRANK PRISINZANO


Soave

 




SOAVE - The TOWN








SOAVE - VALPOLICELLA TOUR




SOAVE - The Region

Soave wine producing area lies on the eastern end of Verona province, on the foothills of the Lessini mountains. It comprehends the valleys of : Mezzane, Illasi, Tramigna (with the meddle-age village of Soave) and Alpone.

The whole region is divided into 3 sub-zones.

The Classica area is the historical wine region and it comprehends the hillside vineyards around the 2 villages of Soave and Monteforte. The soil in the Soave region is very complex and it changes completely in few meters of distance. However in the Classic area, is mainly volcanic soil, “tovo” is the dialect name. In fact the black, basaltic stones are well visible in many vineyards and they give to Soave Classico wine the signature mineral note.

The Colli scaligeri sub-zone surrounds the northern part of area Classica, with a horseshoe-shape. The vineyards are planted in hillside and the terrain is a mix of limestone and volcanic soil. Soave Colli scaligeri is another high quality wine, intense and mineral.

Soave DOC covers the south valley floors and the wines produced here are lighter and less intense than those of the hilly parts. 


The GRAPES


Soave wine is made with Garganega grape, a white indigenous variety, which constitutes at least the 70% of the blend. However  it is not unusual to find Soave wine made with 100% of Garganega. It is an ancient local variety, with a big, pyramidal bunch. It’s a late-ripening grape (end of September) and it gives to Soave wine the signature flavours of white flowers and almonds.

By law, also Trebbiano di Soave (Ugni Blanc) with an high acidity or the international variety of Chardonnay can be part of the Soave blend.


The WINES


Soave DOC has been for many years the most exported white Italian wine and still today is among the most famous Italians whites. It’s a fresh white wine with straw yellow color, light bodied, delicate aromas of elderflower and the slightly bitter after-taste of almond. The Classic version is more complex and can be aged a couple of years more.

Soave Superore DOCG is the highest quality dry wine of the region. The grapes are cultivated at lower yields, only in the hillside vineyards. Soave Superiore has to have minimum 12% vol. of alcohol and it is matured some months before the release for consumption. The color is more golden and aromas are deeper and more intense.

Recioto di Soave DOCG is the most ancient wine of the region. In fact this wine is mentioned in some Romans written records with the name “White Acinatico”. It is a sweet, dessert wine typically paired with Italian almond cookies (Cantucci) or dry pastries. The name Recioto comes from the dialect word “Recie”, which means “ears”, the most external part of the bunch. Traditionally only this parts were selected to make Recioto because better exposed to the sun and, as a result, richer in sugars content. The harvest still today is manual in order to selecet the best bunches. Then the grapes undergoe the so called “appassimento”. This means that they dries from 4 to 6 months stored in a wide and well aired winery room called “fruttaio” . Recioto is a golden nectar with a complex bouquet with notes of honey, dried apricots, ginger and vanilla.





MAP of SOAVE VINEYARDS




The Village of SOAVE


Soave is not only the wine but also the name of the main village of the region. It’s a middle-age hamlet, which worths a visit. In Italian the name “Soave” means “delicate”, “gentle” but despite what one thinks, it doesn’t come from the features of its wines. Instead it derives from “Svevi”, a German population who settled down in the valley after the fall of the Roman Empire, in 476 a.D. However the first inhabitants were the Romans and it is not uncommon for the local farmers, to find remains of the Romans presence, working their fields.

Today, Soave has a medieval aspect, completely surrounded by 2 km of well preserve city walls, with 24 towers and the imposing Scaliger castle on the top. A stroll through its peaceful roads where the time seems to have stopped or a visit at the castle can be included in the tour. 







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Wednesday, January 1, 2025

Lunch with The Conti Capponi Greve Chianti

 



VILLA CALCINAIA

CONTI CAPPONI




DINING with The COUNTS


      I first met the Conti Capponi in the Spring of 1997, a year that turned out to be the greatest vintage ever for not just Italian Wine in Italy, but it was so remarkable that it was a great vintage for all of the best and most prestigious wine region in the World. The vintage was outstanding in Bordeaux, burgundy, Champagne, The Napa Valley, in Austria and Germany, in Piedmont, Montalcino, Campania, Tuscany (Chianti, Brunello), and the entire World. This was the year I made my first big wine trip to Italy, were I met Count Sebastiano Capponi and his brother Nicolo Capponi, and Giovanni Manetti of Fontodi in Panzano, who produced top notch Chianti and Super Tuscan Wines as well.

     I was in the process of opening the first Venetian Wine Bar (Bar Cichetti NYC), ever to exist in The United States, along with my partner in the venture, Tom T. I had conceived the idea after reading an article on Venice that mentioned the Bacari (Venetian Wine Bars) in the piece in The New York Times Travel Section. I got all hopped up reading the article, and made plans to go to Venice and investigate in the Spring of 1995. I booked a flight to Venice, and was on my way. Over the course of 8 days, I went into every Bacaro in Venice, eating Cichetti and drinking local wine, along with other wines of the Italian Peninsula. I studied the Bacari (Wine Bars) and how each of them did things : what types of cichetti they had, and how they served them,  the wine lists, decor, and every little detail involved in each separate wine bar. I took notes, both mentally and in my notebook. I learned quite a lot, and was armed with the knowledge to set my plan in motion.

     I made a business plan for the Bacaro that I wanted to open in New York. I met Tom T. at an event at the players club in New York. It was a Black Tie Event, honoring comedian / actress Carroll Burnett. It was quite the event. I met Tom, and we took a liking to each other, and somehow my plans to open a Venetian Wine Bar in New York came up. Tom loved the idea, and said, “Let’s get together and talk about this further,” and so we did. We decided to open the place together, and so this was how one-thing-lead-to-the other, and we ended up being invited to Villa Calcinaia to meet the two Italian Counts, The Conti Capponi, Sebastiano and Nicolo Capponi, aka Conti Capponi.

     The meeting was arranged by our friend Olga, who knew the two Noblemen Flroentine Brothers, Sebastiano and Nicola. Olga had a camera shop, just feet away from the famed Ponte Vecchia Bridge of Florence, and was just a block away from The Palazzo Capponi on the other side of the bridge from Olga Shop. A few months before Tom and his girlfriend Kate were in FLorence and met Olga when they went into her store to buy some film. They struck up a conversation and became friends. And so once, it happened that Tom and I were going to open a Venetian Wine Bar, and we were all taking another trip to Italy to do business, and explore more about Italian Food & Wine, restaurant, and wine bars, Olga told Tom about the Conti Capponi who owned Villa Calcinaia, and if we wanted to visit their wine estate in Greve, the Villa Calcianaia. And so we did.

    Another friend of ours in New York, Jean Franco who was from Florence and was the Maitre’d at our favorite Italian Restaurant “Novita,” was friends with the owner of Fontodi WIne Estate in Panzano, where Jean Franco arrange a meeting for us to meet Mr. Manetti, and visit the Fontodi Wine Estate.

     At the time we went on this trip, I didn’t know any proprietors of wine estates in Italy. Once I opened Bar Cichetti, and the Italian Wine Community saw what I was doing, they all wanted to meet me, to taste their wines, and visit their wine estates, any time I desired. This was wonderful and quite a revelation. Anyway, lets go to the day in question. The day we dined with the Conti Capponi.

     It was arrange that we would meet one of the brothers, Nicola Capponi at The Palazzo Capponi adjacent to The Ponte Vecchio. Olga went inside to look for Nicola. A few minutes later, out came Olga with the Conti Cappone Nicola. She introduced him to Tom, Maurat, and I. “How do you do,” said Nicola Capponi as we shook hands. He had an aristocratic English accent. I felt as though I was meeting Prince Charles. We had two cars. Maurat went in the Fiat Panda with Nicola. We had a  driver, and Tom, Olga, and myself were in the Mercedes with driver, following Nicola in the Fiant down to the town of Greve in Chianti, and to the Villa Calcinaia, the Capponi’s family wine estate, that had been producing wine in Greve for almost 500 years.

     We left Florence, we hopped onto the SR222 ancient road, the Chiantigiana and made our way to Chianti Classico and The Villa Calcinaia in Greve. The ride was enchanting, arriving into the beautiful rolling hills of Chianti, dotted with Castles, stone farm houses, and a patchwork of Sangiovese Grape Vines, row after row, Olive Groves,Cypress Trees, and other local flora. Seeing the rows of Grape Vines and Olive Trees, I was in seventh heaven. For this is one of the most beautiful spots in all of Gods Good Earth.

   We turned off the main road and onto the driveway leading up to the Villa. Again I was astonished as the drive, just like you see in the movies, was lined with Great Cypress Trees on both sides of the driveway. It was incredible.

    We arrived at Villa Calcinaia, and again I was astonished. It was beautiful, old, and grand. Outside, Nicola’s brother Sebastiano was waiting for us. Olga made the introductions, and so I met Sebastiano Capponi. What an honored. I have known Sebastiano for almost 25 years now, seeing him many times in New York and at the Villa Calcinaia as well. We went inside, at the doorway that lead into the kitchen where there was an open hearth fire, and the cook (a lady) was cooking, and preparing our meal. Wow?

   Nicola took us on a tour of the Villa , first leading us down the hall, he said “This is Alibaba,” as he led us into the room were large Terracotta Urns were filled with Olive Oil from the Capponi Estate. Nice. Nicola took us into another room, and said, “This is ou 300 year old Mother.” The mother being a gelatinous film that you pour wine over to turn it into vinegar. And the Capponi’s have one that has been kept alive for 300 years. Needless to say, their Chianti Wine Vinegar is amazing. We would try some letter when we’d have lunch with the two Counts.

    After seeing the Olive Oil Urns  (Alibaba) and the 300 Year Old Mothers, Nicola took us into the room where a couple tons of Trebbiano Grapes were hanging on slats to dry out, to make Tuscany’s famed Vin Santo Wine. Villa Calcinaia’s is one of Tuscany's best, and we just love it.

    We were then led into a room with many large Slovenian Oak Cask filled with aging Sangiovese for making Chianti wine. Nicola is quite theatrical, and he didn’t disappoint telling a dramatic story, and telling us about the CHianti and the Wine Theif he used to take some wine out of the large oak cask for us to taste. “Wow,” this was my first time doing what si know in the wine world as a “Barrel Sampl,” tasting wine that is aging in wooden cask out of the barrel to see how they taste at any particular time during the aging process. And I was doing it at a renowned Chianti Wine Estate, being served by the Noble Conti Capponi  Nicola. I couldn't believe my great fortune. Again, “I was in 7th Heaven”

   After touring the Villa Calcinaia Cellars, Nicola took us outside to show us the Herb Garden and some Sangiovese Vines, and Olive Tree Groves of the estate. Again, “Wow”

     We then went back inside the castle and were led into the dining room. “Wow, Wow, & Wow? I was going to have lunch with the two Noble Brothers, the Conti Capponi, Sebastiano and Nicola. We all sat down at a beautiful table in the dining room. The lunch was wonderful, drinking several vintages of Capponi Chianti, as we dined on a lovely Antipasto Misti of homemade Salami, Tuscan Pecorino, Olives, and Crostini Toscano. We drank the most recent vintage Chianti of Villa Calcainaia. After the antipasto, we had Pici Pomodoro (Pasta w/ Tomato Sauce), and drank more Chianti.

    The main course was a delicious Roast Chicken with Potatoes, and Chianti Reserva that was absolutely wonderful. We finished the meal with  Villa Calcinaaia Vin Santo and Biscotti, that was one of the most magnificent pairings imaginable. “Wow? What a meal?” , Needless to say, “It was the most memorable meals of my entire life. One I shall never forget. Thank Goodness I do have one nice picture of the meal. It is of me, in the dining room of Villa Calcinaia. “I wish I had more.” Thank God I do have at least that one.

    We finished lunch, thanked the brothers for such a wonderful time, and we bid then adieu. We hopped in the car, and made our way to Panzano. We’d meet Giovanni Manetti, nibble on Salami, and taste their amazing wines. The wines of Fontodi : Chianti, Chianti “Vigne del Sorbo,” Flaccinella, and Vin Santo. 

    “What a day?”





Daniel Bellino Zwicke


January 1, 2025









Me at VILLA CALCINAIA

GREVE in CHIANTI

"LUNCH with The COUNTS"

"Wish I had a BETTER PICTURE"








With CONTI SEBASTIANO CAPPONI

MYSELF & GIOVANNI MANETTI

NEW YORK 2024




CHIANTI


CONTI CAPPONI CALCINAIA CHIANTI











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