PINO
MAKING MY PANINO
DELICIOUS CAPRI GROCERIA
CAPRI
Pino Makes My Panino
ITALIAN SANDWICH for The BEACH
CAPRI
CAPRI
POSITANO The AMALFI COAST
TRAVEL GUIDE / COOKBOOK
PIZZA PASTA SANDWICHES
RECIPES STORIES INFO
Sunday, May 29, 2022
Saturday, May 28, 2022
I Discover Puglian Whites
Locorotondo
Apulia
Locorotondo
Puglia
In May of 2022 I took was taking my first vacation since the beginning of the Cioid 19 pandemic. Due to Covid19, the last time I was in Italy was the Spring of 2019, when I went to Positano, Ischia, Naples, Capri, and Salerno. This was my first trip in almost 3 years, and I was ready. When my cousin Tony told me he was going to Puglia with his wife Debbie, I asked if he wouldn't mind if I went along with them. Tony told me, "Of course. You're always welcome." And so I was set.
We had to go to Salerno for a couple days first, to take care of some family business. Tony and Debbie already had their plane tickets, so I was to meet them in Salerno, on May 5th. We were going to Puglia, but naturally we would enjoy the food and wine in Salerno and on the Amalfi Coast for two days first. And we did. We ate at a few of our regular spots. After I arrive and checked into the Hotel Plaza in Salerno, Tony & Debbie were at the bar across from my hotel and they told me to meet them there. I went outside and they already were drinking a couple Aperol Spritz. Tony asked if I wanted one? Of course. My Aperol Spritz came. Debbie was saying how good they were, and we all concurred. We had many more Spritz's on the trip and they were all judged against the one in the bar by the Hotel Plaza. We already knew we were going to have lunch at our favorite place in Salerno, at L'Archetto Pizzeria Ristorante, to get some tasty Pizza made by Gerardo, our favorite Pizzaiolo in all of Southern Italy, Gerardo is the best. I guess I should cut this short, as I'm supposed to be talking about the White Wines of Puglia. So I will. In a nutshell, we had Pizza and Insalta Frutta di Mare at L'Archetto, we had dinner at La Spagnola, and a great lunch the next day at Lo Smeraldo, our favorite restaurant in the town of Amalfi, (they make great Pizza too). We had a nice bottle of Biancolella that Tony really loved, and then we bought a couple bottles at a wine shop in town. Anyway, we drank Biancolella, Falanghina, and several Aperol Spritz's each those two days in Salerno, and on Saturday May 7, 2022, we got in the car and headed to Bari (Puglia).
We make it to Bari a few hours later. We settle in at the Hotel Hi, and then head over to Barivecchia. We walk around a bit, then bop into a wine bar for some Aperol Spritz's and a little lite afternoon lunch. We walked around, then went back to the hotel, and we decided to have dinner at the hotel that evening.
The next day we head down to Lecce. We walk around, go to the Cathedrale, check everything out, then pick out a nice little trattoria for lunch.
Verdecca is a white grape grown almost exclusively in Puglia but is slowly falling out of favor in the wine world. It is a very neutral flavored grape and historically was most commonly used in vermouth production. Now it is typically found in blends. But don’t count Verdeca out! It’s very easy drinking and refreshing with notes of citrus, pineapple, and Bergamot.
Color is straw yellow with a touch of green. It has a clean minerality that’s almost flinty, with herbal and citrus notes. Due to acidity, drink young.
Bombino Bianco
Bombino Bianco is an easy growing, resistant grape varietal with high yields. Though typically blended with red grapes or used in sparkling wines, Bombino Bianco can be found in still wines on its own. Unlike many wine varieties, it is also used to make raisins.
Wine Profile: Color is lemon yellow with hints of pale green. This is a very neutral and subtle grape that can sometimes express soft citrus fruit and floral notes with touches of minerality.
Greco Bianco
This grape reportedly has Greek origins and has an incredibly long history of over 2500 years. It is genetically similar to the variety Asprinio. The late maturing Greco Bianco is almost always used in a blend with other Apulian varieties, though a passito dessert wine called Greco di Bianco can also be made in Calabria.
FALANGHINA
Of Greek origins, Falanghina arrived in Italy through the landings of the Greeks on the shores of the Gargano, then it spread and affirmed in Campania region too.
LOCOROTONDO DOC
The town produces a white Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) Italian wine that can be made in a still or sparkling Spumante style. The DOC includes 1,650 hectares of vineyards. All grapes destined for DOC wine production must be harvested to a yield no greater than 13 tons per hectare. The wine is made predominantly (50-65%) from Verdeca and Bianco d'Alessano which can make up 45-50% of the blend. Additional grapes are permitted up to a maximum of 5% including Bombino bianco, Fiano and Malvasia Toscana. The finished wine must attain a minimum alcohol level of 11% in order to be labelled with the Locorotondo DOC designation.
Founded in 1665 by the Spanish Duke Oronzo, Earl of Lemos, in the Italian region of Puglia, Leone de Castris has been exporting wine since the beginning of the 19th century. The wines are the product of culture, innovation and a centuries-old tradition of dedication and passion. Leone de Castris’ entire range of wines has won awards and received prestigious recognition from all over the world. Their products are present not only in European markets, but also in the USA, Canada, Brazil, Australia, Singapore, Japan, Hong Kong, and more. Located close to the winery is Leone de Castris’ high-end restaurant and hotel, Villa Donna Lisa, where they host travelers, foreign delegations and Italians wishing to visit the winery. For centuries Leone de Castris has worked only in Puglia, producing only Apulian products. While some may view this as a limitation, for Leone de Castris, it is a specialty to be proud of. Their mission is to make the highest-quality products possible in the land where they were born and raised. Leone de Castris’ Five Roses Rosato was first produced in 1943. It was the first rosé bottled in Italy and the first to be sold in the U.S. For several generations, each de Castris had five children, hence the name, Five Roses. Along with their famous rosé, the winery produces a wide range of red and white DOC wines (Salice Salentino, Primitivo di Manduria) and interesting IGT Salento and Puglia wines.
The Wines of Puglia
Locorotondo
Puglia
The WINES of PUGLIA
Long and narrow, this Mediterranean region is what dreams are made of. A delightfully warm climate, beautiful green landscapes, stunning architecture, and majestic views of the Ionian and Adriatic Seas complement the region’s extremely fertile soils and vast sea life, making Puglia home to some of Italy’s best food and wine. It is also a leading region in olive oil production, accounting for almost half of Italy’s overall production.
THE TERROIR OF PUGLIA
The regions richly fertile soils and beautiful climate make it a no-brainer as an option for growing grapes. Puglia has a relatively hot and dry climate that’s tempered by cool breezes from the surrounding water, resulting in expressive and delicious wines. The incredibly diverse geography of the region produces wines that are endlessly varied in terroir. Puglia currently has 29 DOC and 4 DOCG wine regions, mostly concentrated in the Salento region at the very heel of Italy’s boot.
Over the past few years, Puglia has gone through some major changes in the quality of their wines due to caring producers and new regulations. Once quantity focused, the region now has winemakers who want to show the world how amazing Apulian wines can be.
If you love Italian wines, this is definitely the region to keep your eyes on. Look no further than this list for a foundation in major Apulian vino! While this list isn’t exhaustive as there are many grape varieties found in the region, these are the major grapes you will come across when you first dive into the beautiful world of Pugliese glou-glou!
RED WINE
Red is king in Puglia. There can be few people who haven’t tasted a rich red Primitivo with soft tannins and plush fruit or a structured, ageworthy Negroamaro in the guise of Salice Salentino or Copertino. The more adventurous may have also tried Puglia’s third black grape, Uva di Troia, also known as Nero di Troia, perhaps from the more northerly Castel del Monte region. You may also have sampled some Puglian rosato, maybe from Negroamaro or the rare, local Bombino Nero, quite possibly descendants of half-made red wines. In fact, there is a real tradition of rosato in the south of Italy; in the past, in the heat of the mezzogiorno, it was often difficult to macerate black grapes long enough on their skins to produce red wine without the scorching temperatures resulting in a stuck fermentation and quite possibly then a rosato. Incidentally, Primitivo also makes an excellent rosato base, with great concentration thanks to its deep colour. I even tried some rosato from one of the world’s rarest grapes, Susumaniello.
Red wines are the bread and butter of Puglia, making up most of the region’s wine. If you like fruit forward, full red wines then this is the region for you! And rosé fans? Many of these grapes make some of the best rosés in Italy as well!
Puglia, also known as Apulia, is the land of voluptuous reds made with indigenous varieties. The three most important red grapes are Negroamaro, Primitivo and Uva di Troia (also known as Nero di Troia). Negroamaro is the most widely grown grape in the region and it is used to make some of the region’s best wines, including the budget-friendly and rustically delicious Salice Salentino. Primitivo delivers deep-colored wines with ripe berry, spicy notes, and refreshing acidity. Fun fact, Primitivo is the same grape variety as California’s Zinfandel, native to the Dalmatian coast of Croatia. Look for Primitivo di Manduria and Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale DOCG, a sweet wine, as they are luscious examples of this grape. Uva di Troia makes the powerful, robust Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva DOCG.
NEGROAMARO
The name Negroamaro means “black bitter” in Italian. The grapes are in fact quite dark in color, and wines made from Negroamaro will typically have a distinct bitter profile. The grape is well suited to Puglia’s climate with its thick skins and drought resistant nature. Many Apulian rosés are typically made from Negroamaro.
Wine Profile: Ruby-Violet in color. Aromas of red cherry, tobacco, and licorice that transition into black pepper, prune, and herbaceous notes with age. Flavors typically of ripe blackberry and tobacco. Full bodied with soft tannin. This wine is best between 3-7 years old but can be had with up to 10 years of age. It can be drunk at room temperature, but a slight chill is also pleasantly refreshing.
PRIMITIVO
Primitivo is the same grape as California Zinfandel. The name means “early ripening” in old Italian, a name true to its typically early harvest in August. The grape is less robust than Negramaro, being sensitive to drought, high temperatures, and frost. Primitivo has a naturally high sugar content and its wine was traditionally praised for its high alcohol content (it can reach upward to 18% ABV!). The intense aromatics have garnered Primitivo popularity in modern times.
Primitivo displays aromas of sour and Black Cherry as well as Raspberry. Taste is jammy black fruit with low acidity and moderate tannin as long as it sees a little barrel time. The wine is usually Big & Bold.
NERO d' TROI
This black skinned grape is perfectly at home in the northern part of Puglia, especially Foggia and northern Bari. This late-ripening variety has two growing styles: large berry, tight cluster which is suitable for high yields, and small berry, loose cluster which is suited for high quality. The relatively high astringency of the grape makes it common in red blends.
SUSUMANIELLO
Ruggero di Bardo
SUSUMANIELLO
Susumaniello is a little-known red-wine grape from Puglia, southern Italy. Grown almost exclusively in the Salice Salento area, and in a tiny number of vineyards around Brindisi, it ranks among the world's rarest wine grapes.
Drinking Some VERDECA
VERDECA
Verdeca is a white grape grown almost exclusively in Puglia but is slowly falling out of favor in the wine world. It is a very neutral flavored grape and historically was most commonly used in vermouth production. Now it is typically found in blends. But don’t count Verdeca out! It’s very easy drinking and refreshing with notes of citrus, pineapple, and bergamot.
Vedeca usually displays mineral notes in the palate, as well as a bit of herbal notes and citrus flavors.
LOCOROTONDO DOC
Locorotondo will be a fun revelation for any wine lover, but in particular for those who are drawn to lean and flinty whites. One sip will sail you to the Adriatic coast, where the sea is turquoise blue, the Olive Groves are Ancient, and the Fish is so fresh it hops from the water to your plate. A blend of co-planted Verdeca, Bianco d’Alessano, and Minutolo—an indigenous, aromatic variety only recently recovered from the brink of extinction—epitomizes the richness of local Italian heritage. It’s zesty and cleansing, with just a spritz of orange blossom.
Locorotondo DOC is a dry white wine, made from the rarely seen Verdeca grape (50-60%) and Bianco d’Alessano (30-50%), Fiano and/or Bombino, Malvasia Toscana (0-5%). The wine is grown around the city of Locorotondo, in the Itria Valley.
Often, Locorotondo DOC is perceived as the best Apulian white wine and undoubtedly, it has great qualities: a pleasant, subtle and fruity taste, with an almond-like aftertaste, which makes it excellent for fish dishes.
The color is light straw green and if the wine originates from certain producers, including the local CS Cooperativa Locorotondo, its quality is truly exceptional. Unfortunately, some producers make almost tasteless versions of this glorious white wine.
A nice sparkling wine with these same grapes (Verdeca, Bimbino Bianco & Alessano) is produced in Locorotondo as Locorotondo Spumante DOC. It is gaining in popularity as more and more tourist visit Puglia each year.
Bombino Bianco
At Regionale Wine Bar
Alberobello, Puglia
Bombino Bianco
Bombino Bianco is an easy growing, resistant grape varietal with high yields. Though typically blended with red grapes or used in sparkling wines, Bombino Bianco can be found in still wines on its own. Unlike many wine varieties, it is also used to make raisins.
Wine Profile: Color is lemon yellow with hints of pale green. This is a very neutral and subtle grape that can sometimes express soft citrus fruit and floral notes with touches of minerality.
Greco Bianco
This grape reportedly has Greek origins and has an incredibly long history of over 2500 years. It is genetically similar to the variety Asprinio. The late maturing Greco Bianco is almost always used in a blend with other Apulian varieties, though a passito dessert wine called Greco di Bianco can also be made in Calabria.
FALANGHINA
Of Greek origins, Falanghina arrived in Italy through the landings of the Greeks on the shores of the Gargano, then it spread and affirmed in Campania region too.
A WINE BAR in ALBEROBELLO
PUGLIA
FRANZ & HEIDI
Enjoying Tasty Puglian Wine
REGIONALE WINE BAR
ALBEROBELLO
PUGLIA
Italian Cookbook Author
Daniel Bellino Zwicke
Good Times with The Owner
Of Regionale Wine Bar
"Mimo"
ALberobello
POSITANO The AMALFI COAST
TRAVEL GUIDE / COOKBOOK
"ANTICO"
LOCOROTONDO BIANCO
LOCOROTONDO BIANCO
In ALBEROBELLO
VERDECA & BOMBINO BIANCO
Author Daniel Bellino Zwicke
Alberobello
Puglia
2022
LOCOROTONDO BIANCO
RIVERA
(Verdeca & Bianca d' Alessano)
This wine sure was tasty. This was the first wine I drank inside of the town of Locorotondo itself.
I got off the bus from ALberobello, and made my way up the hill from the bus stop. Halfway up I came across a little wine bar, so I stopped in to use the bathroom and get something to drink. The girl gave me this wine, Locorotondo Bianco from Rivera, made with local Verdeca and Bianca d' Alessano grapes. The wine was lovely, clean crispy and fresh. I was on my way.
I walked around a bit, and then I had to find a good place for lunch. I came upon the Ristorante Braceria and settle on that. People were sitting outside, and nobody was inside. They didn't have any more tables outside but I didn't mind. I was the only one eating inside. It was quite nice and I settled in. I asked for a glass of Locorotondo Bianca, and the waitress poured me some of the Antica Locorotondo Bianca I had the other night, when I had dinner in Alberobello.
I ordered the antipasti misti and a little while later the watress brought me some Eggplant Parmigiana, Chicoria, and the best Fiore d' Zuccca (Zucchini Flowers) I've ever had. "Damn they were tasty." The Zucchini Flowers were stuffed with Ricotta and topped with some of the local Pecorino. They were baked and not fried as they usually are. The Pecorino got really crunchy, and these Zucchini FLowere tasted oh so good. The Chicoria was mixed with Pecorino too, and a bit of eggs to bind everything together. Another great dish. And I was enjoying my glass of local wine as I ate my tasty antipasto. The Eggplant was good, but not mind blowing. Nothing as good as my dear Aunt Fran used to make.
My Antipasto Misti
Fiore di Zucca, Chicoria, e Melanzane Parmigiana
It was quite nice sitting in this calm peaceful restaurant in Locorotondo. Nice music, good food, tasty local wine and I was in heaven. My Orecchiette came. I'm sorry to say, it wasn't that good. Neither the sauce nor the little meatballs were good at all. Hardly any taste, and quite a bit disappointment to tell you the truth. Luckily the ambiance was great, excellent wine, the Fiore d' Zucca, so delicious and the Chicoria was superb, that these other elements made up for the very mediocre Orecchiette. "What are you going to do?"
CASA NOVA RISTORANTE
ALBEROBELLO, PUGLIA
GRIGLIATA MISTI al CAS NOVA
ALBEROBELLO
PORK SHOULDER, SAUSAGES, & BOMBETTE
CASA NOVA RISTORANTE
ALBEROBELLO
CASA NOVA HOUSE AMARO
MY TRULLO
ALBEROBELLO
PUGLIA
LUNCH with TONY & DEBBIE
GRIGILIATA MISTI
CISTERNINO, PUGLIA
"MEAT" !!!
La LANTERNA MACCERLERIA
CISTERNINO
Susumaniello with Lunch
La Lanterna
Cisternino, Italy
Wednesday, May 25, 2022
Lunch at Bar Pitti New York
Dinner with Family
BAR PITTI
NEW YORK
With Cousins Joe, Eddie, and Tommy, and friends Tarik and Michele, at our favorite Italian Restaurant in New York, Bar Pitti (20220). Great meal. Giovanni gave us two bottles of Solaia on the house. A personal gift from Gio to cousins Joe and Eddie. Thanks Gio, quite tasty. We had a great meal, antipasti, pasta and our main courses. Good times with friends and family, sharing a meal at the table, can't be beat.
GIOVANNI
BAR PITTI
GREENWICH VILLAGE
NEW YORK
LUNCH at BAR PITTI
2008
Me Cousin Joe and Helmut Gingel
GOOD TIMES at BAR PITTI
Over The Years
Dinner with COUSIN JOE
BAR PITTI
NEW YORK
PASTA & MACARI SAUVIGNON BLANC
Joe Macari
On MACARI SAUVIGNON BLANC
SUNDAY SAUCE
MACCHERONI PASTA
SAUSAGE MEATBALLS
And MUCH MORE
"I LOVE GABAGOOL"
by Bellino
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