NEW YORK ITALIAN FOOD ..... and WINE GUY: BIG GUNS of ITALIAN WINE / GAJA And ?

Friday, October 25, 2013

BIG GUNS of ITALIAN WINE / GAJA And ?

BIG GUNS of ITALIAN WINE

GAIA GAJA

RENZO RASPIACOLLI

and

DANIEL BELLINO ZWICKE

At TERLATO TASTING
HARLOW

NEW YORK

The Biog Guns of New York Italian Wine were out and about yesterday. Two of New York's Top Italian Wine Guys, Renzo Raspiacolli (Wine Director Barbetta) and author Daniel Bellino Zwicke (Wine Director DeGrezia / Writer) were spotted at The Terlato Tasting at Harlow in New York tasting and smoozing with non other than Gaia Gaja (daughter of Angelo Gaja) and other wine luminaries. The good friends and two of America's top Italian Wine Authorities hung out and tasted from table-to-table: Chapoutier, great Bollinger Vintage Chamagne, Nino Franco Prosecco from good friend Primo Franco, IL Poggione Brunello and other wines. The highlight of course being the Gaja Barbaresco Brunello and Barolo offerings of which Gaia Gaja poured for the 2 Bug Wine Dogs personally. Daniel said he especially loved the Gaja Coste Russi 2009 .. Daniel also loved the Bollinger Vintage Champagnes, but was quite disappointed with the Brunello's from Il Poggone of which he said were extremely dissapointing. He said the Il Poggione Brunello's at the tasting were flat, and lacked flavor and overall balance. He stated that he has always loved this producer, and for this reason he was so surprised at the showing of these wines.

Daniel and Renzo then moved on to The Palm Bay tasting at Quality Meats a few blocks away on 58th Street. The two Italian Wine Guys were greated by some great sparklers from Italy's Premier Sparkling Wine Produce Ferrari. They tasted Giulio Ferrari Brut 2001, Perle Brut 1999, and Perle Nero Brut 2006 .. The two agreed that these wines were all spectacular and quite a treat as they were only expecting to taste the Non-Vintage Wines of Ferrari and not the special vintages.

Daniel and Renzo then moved on to taste with Francesco Mazzie of Mazzei. ThEY tatsed Mix 36 (100 % Sangiovese) and "Philip" 2008 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and then moved on to the special treat of the table a vertical of Mazzei's famed Super Tuscan "Siepi" 2003 2005 2006 and 2007 vintages. All were oustanding and Daniel said he liked them all, but the 2003 vintage with its concentrated exotic flavors was his fave.

Daniel tatsed the wines of Santa Rita (Chile) with owner Cecilia. They chatted about mutual friend Alvaro Espinosa. Daniel liked all the wines from Cecilia and Santa Rita, his favorite being th Carmenere "Pehuen" 2005, but thought the wines were a bit expensive at mid 30's 40's and $50 the bottle for wines from Chile, Daniel said, "They're a hard sell."

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1990 CONTRATTO BAROLO "SECOLO" CEREQUIO VINEYARD KICKS ASS

Drank some awesome Barolo the other night. We popped a bottle of Contratto Barolo "Secolo" 1990 from the famed Cerequio Vineyard the other night. The wine was, as they say "Off The Chain" Incrediable, and everything you expect in a great Barolo, from a stellar vintage, aged properly for 20 years. This Boys and Girls is how great Barolos are meant to drunk, "Old." Yes, Barolo, made of 100% Nebbiolo from the best grapes, grown on the best sights are meant to drink.

The wine was textbook Barolo, smelling and tasting Violets, Tar, and Alcohol Soaked Bing Cherries. Yumm is all I can say. Why pontificate with overrun adjectives and descriptions of taste and aromas, all marvelously delisious to say the least. On a 100 point scale, this wine easily rates a 98, so all you need to know is that it was delicious, just about perfect and rates a 98. Nuff said.

I first tasted this wine at a luncheon with Vineyard owner Antonella Boccino. The wine was of course more zippy and youthful back in 97. It has now aged into utter perfection. If you have or could possibly find a bottle, and drink one, it well without a doubt be one of your life's great wine drinking experiences.

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

NOTE: Going to the Winebow Grand Portfolio tasting in Soho today (Sept. 19, 2011). Will taste some great wines today, the likes of; Rosso del Conti, Allegrini Amarone, all the Bruno Giacosa Barolo and Barbaresco Crus, "Turiga," and Chianti from Castellare and others. Will meet with Conte Giuseppe Tasca, famed winemaker Vittorio Fiore, and Marelesa Allegrini.

Will report back on the tasting in the next day or two.

Caio, Daniel

BEST ITALIAN FOOD in NEW YORK ...It's BAR PITTI

When it comes to great Italian Food, in a city (New York) that is known to have the Best Italian Food in the World outside of Italy, it's hard to beat Bar Pitti, which is why Bar Pitti may very well be the "Best Italian Restaurant" in New York City! Yes!

Wait a minute, scratch that "maybe." No, Bar Pitti serves without a doubt, thee "Best Italian Food in New York." You don't think so? name one that is better. And please only qualified people please. No followers or Hack Food Critics like

Frank Bruni.

Who could compete? Maybe Babbo, Del Posto, Elio's, Lupa. They are all good, but none as good and consistent as Bar Pitti.

Il Mulino is absolutely "Aweful!" An "Overpriced Lackluster Restaurant" with horrible ambiance, mechanical annoying service, and food that is merely good, and no better and insanely "High Prices." It's a place for "Followers" who run with the crowd and wouldn't know real good Italian Food if it came up and Bit Them in The Ass.

Babbo many would say. Well Babbo is quite good, but just can't hold up to Bar Pitti with more of a true Italian feel, great food at truly real Italian Prices. Babbo is a great Special Occasion restaurant, but for everyday eating, Babbo doesn't even come close to Bar Pitti for "Great Quality Price Ratio," and even not considering the prices, if they were the same, though the food at Babbo is very good and I've had a few very enjoyable meals there, I have been disappointed a couple of times, something that has "Never" happened to me at Bar Pitti and I've eaten there more times, yet never been disappointed, not once, and always had a great time. So even if the prices were the same, Bar Pitti still has an edge, with Better More Consistent Authentic Italian Food than Babbo.

How bout Maialino, Laconde Verde, Osteria Morini, and others? As MC Hammer would say, "Can't Touch This."

So if you're looking for Thee "Best Italian Food in New York" there's one name, "Bar Pitti."

Recommended Dishes:

Coda d'Vacinara (Braised Oxtails) 150 Points on a 100 Pt Scale

Bolito d'Manzo (Boiled Beef) Taste a whole Lot Better than it sounds!

Polpettine d' Vitello (Veal Meatballs)

Fegato al Salvia (Calves Liver sauteed w/Sage)

Paparadelle con Sugo d'Coniglio (Pasta with Rabbit Ragu)

PUNTARELLE Wild Roman Greens Salad w/Anchovy Dressing

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

Tasty 2009 Rosso di Montalcino Indicates Great 2009 Vintage BRUNELLO

If a good or great Rosso di Montalcino is any indication of how good the Brunello of the same Vintage to be released 3 years later will be, and it usually is, then we are in store for some great

Brunello 2009 when they are release in January of 2014.

At the recent "Brunello Tasting" for the 2006 Vintage Brunello's, the 2009 Rosso di Montalcino's that were on hand, where absolutely wonderful and the big surprise of the tasting held at The New York Hilton. Rosso's where on hand by some but not all producers of Brunello, and most that I tasted were outstanding. Some were just about close to perfection, with wonderful balance of an abundance of Fruit, against just the right amount of acid content, and tannic backbone. Some of these wines were an absolute Joy to drink as with examples by; Argiano, Fattoria Barbi, Il Poggione, and the

Rosso di Montalcino from the Castel Giacondo Estate of the Noble Florentine Family, The Frescobaldi's.

I really loved the Rosso from Argiano which reminded me of the year of 2008 when my friends the Rozner Brothers Dave and Michael found ourselves quite a number of times hanging at the highly popular and one of New York's best Trattoria's "Bar Pitti" having some good ole times drinking

Rosso di Montalcino "Argiano" 2006. This was a good year for Rosso from Montalcino and we must of had at least 50 bottles of the stuff that year. One day we were joined by friend

Curtis Stone. We had a wonderful 2 1/2 hour lunch that day, eating Tripp, Prosciutto, and Pasta accompanied by 5 bottles of Argiano Rosso which we thoroughly enjoyed. And this is all of what wines should be along with the food that goes with them and the restaurants or homes we share our meals in; good Friends, tasty Food, and great wine. That's the good life or as we Italians would say La Dolce Vital, "The Sweet Life." Enjoy!

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

QUICK REPORT of 2011 TRE BICCHIERI

Well the 2011 TRE BICCHIERI TASTING in NEW YORK was as usual pretty awesome. And unlike usual for the Tre Bicchieri Tasting in New York, not overly crowded as it usually is apt to be. Held for again at the Metropolitan Pavillion, but what seemed like almost double the space. Bravo. And bravo to some wonderful wines.

Seemed as though, overall if I had to pick one category of wine that was showing best overall as a category, I'd have to say that it was some Nebbiolo based wines that most impressed on the day. With Renato Ratti Barolo Rocche 2006 leading the way with Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto 2004 and a beautiful wine from Lombardia in the Sforzato Valtellina Albered 2008.

The Sforzato Albered just blew me away. A truly beautiful elegant wine that popped with fresh flavors of Cherry and Exotic Far East Teas with twinges of Smoke and Violets, Amazing.

The Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche and Ratti Rocche with both perfectly balanced Text-Book Barolos, and both just a Joy to Drink.

Some of the best wines of the day were some phenomenal whites with Cevaro della Sala 2008 leading the way. This years Cevaro, as in most years, was just wonderful and tasting like a great white Burgundy. Made of 80% Chardonnay and 20% and Barrel Fermented in the Burgundian Style, the wine was perfectly blance and full of all sorts of wonderful fruit and Exotic Tropical flavors. Loved it. The "Terre Alte" from Livio Felluga was a winner as well, along with a tasty Verdicchio from Umani Ronchi.

The Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 was the best Chianti of the day as well as being in my Top 10 wines of the day. Speaking of Tuscan Reds, I'm sorry to say that most Tre Bicchieri Brunello were a bit disappointing, while in the Super Tuscan department, the Sassicaia 2007 (Winemake, good friend Sebastiano Rosa) was truly superb and probably the Best Vintage for this wine in the past 4 years or so. Excellent.

And speaking of Sebastiano Rosa, another favorite of the day was the outstanding offering of Mr. Rosa and the Incisa Rochetta family in their Sardinia venture, , Burrua 2004, based of Carigan, this wine was packed with flavor without being over the top, but with wonderful Dry and Black fruit flavores. A great wine, as is the Tre Bicchieri winner from the Rallo Family of Marsala, one "Tancredi" Donnafugata. Jose Rallo was on hand presenting this wine that had a nice punch of ripe fruit that is perfectly balance in a Nero d'Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon blend. A joy to drink.

So it goes. Some great wines from Italy at the 2011

Tre Bicchieri New York.

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

GRATTAMACCO..DONNAFUGATA......RENATO RATTI...A Pamphlet Report

Just did a barrage of four important Italian Wine Tastings in the past 2 weeks, with the much anticipated Chianti-Brunello Masters of Italian Wine tasting and culminating Friday with the most important New York Italian Wine Event of the year,

Tre Bicchieri. As always I pick up the nice looking pamphlets and brochures on most tables. They look nice with beautiful pictures of Tuscany, Tuscan Wine Estates, Vineyards in Sicily, Sardinia, and all over the Italian peninsular. What's not to like? What doesn't look beautiful? It's Italy for Gods sake! Arguably the most beautiful country on Planet Earth. And it's Italian Wine, food, Castles, Villas, this that and every other thing. And there's info in those things, the pamphlets and brochures.

Yes I have picked up hundreds over the years, intending to read through them, picking up facts and knowledge about the wines and the estates they come from. And I do read them. But what the percentage? Fifteen 20%? about that I guess. And yes I look at the pictures. Hey they are worth a thousand words. And yes they are. They, the brochures sit around my place, just clutter after a while, and eventually, on one house cleaning or another, many of them get thrown out, never being read. Se La Vie! It is Life.

So as I look at a small pile of them that I've acquired in these last two weeks, I have made a pledge. I'm gonna read them. Maybe not all, but most and more of them anyway. Heck, I think I'll even write about them. His this little piece.

Ok, so here we go. Grattamacco. I'm starting with the simple. This is just a pamphlet. Not a brochure, not pretty pictures, this is just one piece of paper. Real simple, but I read it as I met with the owner Claudio Tipa at the resent Tre Bicchieri. Yes a three glass winner, and a number of times. And this wine is one of the most outstanding Super Tuscans of them all. I've never been that much into it. Yes knowing about so many Italian Wines, working with them, tasting, drinking, selling, this that and every other thing for years. There is not one person who knows it all, and I know more than most. But I do not know everything. So I delve into this one. A good friend of mine who is a true Italian Wine Afficianado absolutely adors this wine, and is always talking about it. His name is Pat and he is absolutely spot on in his Love and enthusiasm for this wine Grattamacco.

Taking a sip of the Grattamacco that Claudio poured for me,

I liked it instantly. And as he spoke of the wine and how it is made, he perked my interest even more. Grattamacco and its estate is Organic. And the way that it is made by Claudio's wine-maker Maurizio Castelli, is truly amazing. The wine is made in small French Oak Barrels by hand. The grapes are pressed and the must (juice) is put into the small barrels with the skins and punched down by hand. Amazing. Anyway, all this Claudio told me at the table, hey what info did I get from the pamphlet.

Well, i did get most of my info on Grattamacco as I smoke at the table with Claudio, but everything was so interesting that I had to take and read the pamphlet. So what did I learn. Well, that the estate is 25 acres and that Claudio also makes olive oil. That Grattamacco has won 3 glasses, Tre Bicchieri 7 times as well as getting 90 point scores from Robert parker seven times as well. Also that this vintage of Grattamacco 2007 is made of 20% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot, and 60 Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Reading the pamphlet I learned the name of the wine-maker, that I have already stated is Maurizio Castelli.

Another Great wine at the tasting was the

Renato Ratti Barolo Rocche 2006. Phenominal and one of my Top3 Favorites of the day. Well some info that I got from the Ratti brochure was that the estate was founded in 1965 with the purchase of a small plot of land in the "Historical" Marcenasco zone, close to the Abbey of Annunziata.

The brochure states that the owners and wine-makers of Renato Ratti produce a range of wines with respect for the territory and time honored wine-making techniques combined with some modern innovation. The Renato Ratti wine estate makes Dolcetto, Sauvignon Blanc, Nebbiolo D'Alb, and 3 renowned Barolo Crus in Marcenasco, Conca, and the previously mentioned Rocche.

The Renato Ratti brochure was quite nice, packing lots of infor into a very small piece that include a bit of text, pictures of the winery, vineyards, owners, wine labels of all their wines, and best of all the the "Cartadel Barolo" di Renato Ratti which is a famous map that Renato Ratti drew of the Barolo Wine Zone and its Famed Vineyards. Really wonderful and a must have for any serious Italian Wine Geek. Bravo Renato Ratti!

Third item on my list is the beautiful brochure of "Donnafugata" from my good friends Jose and Antonio Rallo.

The Rallo Family is a lovely family who goes First Class all the way, from their vineyards to the winery's, the vines, the fruit, the wine-making, to the packing of beautiful bottles of wine with great labels, and yes right down to a First Class Brochure as well. Yes, the Rallo's are and go First Class from beginning to end.

So the brochure. Well it starts with beautiful color cover of paintings that symbolize Donnafugata the wines and the estate and the Rallo Family as well. The Donnafugate brochure is 40 pages long, filled with text, paintings, maps, and pictures of the Rallo's and Donnafugata, the vineyards, the Wines, the People.

The first thing i found out by reading the brochure and not just merely looking through it is that the word Donnafugata means "Woman in Flight." Nice. Ok, now down to the wines. First I have to talk about the Donnafugata benchmark premier wine, Donnafugata "Mille Una Note," or 1001 Nights. Mille una Notte, is a wine I've loved for years made of about

95% Nero d'Avola, Sicily's premier Red Grape and 5% other varieties which may include Cabernet Sauvignon and Nerello Mascallese. This wine is what I like to call "A BIG BAD BOY," meaning it is big and full bodied with tons of ripe fruit flavors, what they would call in California, a "Fruit Bomb," but a restrained fruit bomb, big and bold, but not overly concentrated, but just right. The "Mille Una Notte" is amongst Sicily's Most Famous wines along with the two most famous in the renowned "Rosso del Conti" from Giuseppe Tasca and "Duca Enrico," with the Cerausolo di Vittoria Planeta.

Anyway, back to the brochure as all this info, I was told personally from Antonio Rallo, other than the meaning of Donnafugata.

What I learned was some things about another Donnafuagta wine of high esteem, the Passito di Pantelleria "Ben Rye" from the Rallo's property on the island of Pantelleria, renowned as having the World's Caper's along with one of the World's Great Desert Wines in the Passito di Pantelleria.

In the brocchure, it states that the "Ben Rye" is made of Zibbio grapes. That I knew. What I didn't know is that not all the grapes are dried as i had previously thought. First, there is a harvest of "Zibibbo" grapes that takes place within the last 2 weeks of August. These grapes are put on grapes to dry in the Sun for 3-4 weeks. OK, I knew that, but I had thought all the grapes were dried before I read the brochure. In September a second harvest takes place. The Zibibbo grapes are pressed and the must (grape juice) is placed in a vat with the to ferment with the dried grapes for about a month and a half till November. The result is something I know not from the brochure but from the numerous times I pleasured in the drinking of this "Nectar of the Gods," Ben Rye. The wine is lush with aromas and tastes of Honeysuckle, Peach, and Ripe Apricots. Drinking it, borders on Orgasmic. What else can I say. It's rare and wonderful pleasure, but obtainable, none the less. Treat yourself some day. Treat some friends. i highly recommend it.

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

The "NEGRONI" a Sophisticated COCKTAIL

The Negroni! A cocktail most Americans do not know. To bad! It is so fine. Well not many know except among the more Sophisticated of our population. Even just a minute percentage of those who have traveled to its birthplace in Italy will even know of the cocktail. In this country, it is drank more often in the city of New York, a city with a higher "Sophisticate" ratio than most, but still only a few will know of this drink, the Negroni Cocktail.

So what it is it? Well its base is the highly popular aperitif bitter Campari, a Bitter-Sweet aperitif from Torino, Italy. The Negroni made of 1 0z. Cmapari, 1 oz. Sweet Vermouth, 3/4 oz. Gin, over ice cubes in a Rocks Glass with a splash of Club Soda on top and garnished with a slice of Orange or Orange peel. Voila! The Negroni! Usually drunk as an aperitif before dinner in the early evening, but just as wonderful anytime of the afternoon, especially Alfresco, or late into the evening for that matter.

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

TASTING Some CHIANTI and BRUNELLO'S

The 2011 Wine Gala Wine Tasting held by the Italian Trade Commission was as Gala as years past. In these lean economic times, what really is these days? Macs, iPads, iPhones, and all things Apple? What else.

Yes things were lean but there were a few bright spots to be sure. Let me start with the wines of the uber popular estate of "Ruffino" and its most popular wines Chianti Riserva Ducale and its prestigious Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva "ORO,"

Gold Label. To the most serious and knowledgeable of Italian Wine Afficianados these wine are normally dismissed as commercial and passes, but to many Italian-Americans and older slightly moneyed New York Italian-Americans and "Guys with Bent Noses," and guys who like to emulate Guys with Bent Noses Ruffino Ducale Gold Label is held in quite high esteem. This wine has a history and presence in New York when it was one of more or less a handful of Italian Wines in this country compared to the thousands available today. Back in the 60's and 70's Ruffino along with the wines of Bertani, Masi, and Pio Cesare were thee top of the line, and people dining at the many Old-School Italian Restaurants of the day gravitated to these wines like Flies on you know what.

Anyway, many more wines became available, more people visited Italy and explored the wines, many more wines became available and to many, these wines lost there luster. That being said, there is still a quite considerable number of people, especially men over the age of 50 who still hold this wine in high esteem and order it often in the Italian Restaurants of the day.

OK, so let's talk about the wine tasted. As usual the Ruffino Ducale Oro Gold Label 2005 disappointed. The wine which is a Premium Wine at "Premium Price" quite often disappoints, as it did on this day. It just was not well balance, it lacked fruit, and just was not enjoyable to put it in the simplest terms possible. The much cheaper wine in the Ruffino Ducale Chianti Riserva 2006 on the other hand was very enjoyable and a "Superior Wine" to the Ducale "Oro" (Gold Label) 2005. It was well rounded with proper tanic and acid components with a generous amount of Fruit and weight that was just perfect, not too much nor too little, just pleasant wine to drink. And for those of the general public who don't normally know a great deal about wine as far as all the intricacies are concerned (which can be just a bunch of BS), but they know when they like and totally enjoy a wine, you should know that quite often the lesser simple wine of a estate are better, tastier, more enjoyable than the supposedly "Better" more costly Premium wines, which is the case once again with the current vintages available from the estate of Ruffino.

At this Gala Tasting, the fine wines of Franco and Son Jacopo Biondi Santi were on hand from their two Tuscan estates Castello Di Montepo and their famed Brunello estate Tenuta Il Greppo where Franco and Jacopo's forefather "Created" Brunello.

First I tried the whole line of Super Tuscans and Morellino Di Scansano from the Montepo Estate. A wine that is one of my all-time favorite Super Tuscans, "Sassoalloro" was a bit of a disappointment this time around in the 2007 vintage. I have loved this wine over the years especially the 1993 Vintage which I drank with Jacopo and 14 other noted New York Italian Wine Guys in Renzo Rapiscoli, Charles Sciccoilone and myself at a wonderful Wine tasting Dinner Jacopo hosted at Spark's Steak House. The wines that evening where outstanding, including; the Sassoalloro, Schidione, Moscadello, and several vintages of Biondi Santi's "Famed" Brunello.

So, back to the wines on this day. The Schidione was quite nice, the Morrellino good. The two Brunello's on hand for the day were showing nicely but will be at their optimumin a few years, as these wines are made to age, drinking best with 15 to 20 years or more on them. The Brunello's this day were the 2005 Normale and the 2004 Riserva, both excellent and showing great promise down the road. Bravo Jacopo.

Now down to the stars of the show and the wines of

Castello Di Querceto in Greve in Chianti.

I met with Dottt. Alessandro Francois and maria Antonietta Corsi of Castello Querceto and they tasted me on their wines, of which 3 of the 6 I tasted were absolutely outstanding. The base Chianti in the Querceto Chianti Classico 2008 was a enjoyable textbook Chianti, medium bodied, good Cherry fruit flavors, with a bit of zippy acid and just perfectly balance. Next up was the Chianti Classico Ris. "Il Picchio" 2007. A beautifu wine that had all the great characteristics of the previous Chianti with just a notch upward of fruit and bodied. I loved the Super tuscan offering in the Querceto "Il Quercioaia" 2005. The wine had great balance, it was full in flavor with beautiful Chery and Black Fruit flavors. made of 65% Sangiovese and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine was a joy to drink.

Let me note that all the Chianti's of Castello Querceto are "Real Chianti" and not aborted sacrilegious so-called Chianti that contain Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, which are aloud by the government because of political reasons in Chianti which is a "Complete and Total Sacrilege" which any true Chianti afficianado will tell you that, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syhrah or any none native grape should "Ever be Aloud" in bottle of wine labeled Chianti. Chianti is a great wine made primarily of Sangiovese with small quanities of other minor native grapes such as; Colorino, Malvasia Nero, Cielliegiollo, and Canaiolo.

All the Chaint of Castello Di Querceto are real Chainti in that they are all made with only native grapes which include about 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo. Thank you Castello Querceto and all other Chianti producers like Mansanto, Castello Verrazzano and others who make "Real Authentic Chianti," Chianti that contains only "Native Grape Varietals" and no trace of International Grapes such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Thank You, Thank You, Thankyou. It can not be said enough. And to the Chianti Consorzio headed by the President Marco Palenti who makes "Fake Chianti" at Castello di Ama that contains Merlot in the Blend. "Stop,!" Change the Chianti laws and "Ban" Merlot, Cabernet, and Syhrah "Forever." Please! Make only "Real Chianti" again!

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

Photos by DANIEL BELLINO ZWICKE

The ITALIAN WINE MASTERS CHIANTI BRUNELLO TASTING

The Italian Wine Masters met at the New York Hilton for their Annual Chianti Brunello Tasting on Tuesday, February 8th. Many fine wines where on hand, including a Prosecco Tasting with many producers on hand including from Conegliano Valdobbiadene Consorzio along with numerous Vino Nobile, Chianti, and Brunello estates on hand. The stars of the show were of course the wines of Brunello di Montalcino. Not to take anything away from the zones of Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano, Chianti, or Prosecco that wonderful refreshingly light bubbly from the Veneto and the Wine Bars of Venice, Prosecco.

I must say, as being a great lover of Chianti and one of its Biggest Advocates in all the United States as well as being one of the country's top authorities on the subject, I was a bit disappointed with the Chianti offerings on hand. Two of my favorites in Fontodi and Vignamaggio from Panzano and Greve respectively were present, such notables and top producers as : Villa Calcainaia, Monsanto, Badia Coltobuono, and Castello Verrazzno were not where in sight. Si La Vie.

Let's get to Brunello. The tasting was of the latest vintage on release. This being the 2006 vintage Brunello and 2004 and 2005 Brunello Riserva. There were some solid offerings with favorites of the tasting going to Fattoria Barbi, Ffrescobaldi, Col d'Orcia, Livio Sassetti, and Tenuta Greppone Mazzi.

Favorite of all were the normale Brunello 2006 by both Fattoria Barbi and Brunello Castel Giocondo from

Marchese Frescobaldi of whom my good friend the

Marchese Ferdinado Frescobaldi was on hand, and as always great to see. The Rosso di Montalcino's of which the 2009 vintage were shown at the tasting were a wonderful surprise. Most were drinking beautifully, medium in body, full of flavor, and just pleasantly enjoyable drinking wines. I particularlly loved the Barbi Rosso and Frescobaldi Rosso di Montalcino Campo ai Sasso 2009, of which I could have sat there drinking and chatting all day with the Marchese Frescobaldi. Quite a wonderful experience.

My favorite Brunello of the day was the Brunello Riserva 2005 from Fattoria Barbi. A awesome wine that was absolute perfection. And for overall the best table that just edged out Barbi by a hair was the table of the Noble Frescobaldi Family, with the lovely Rosso Campo ai Sasso, the Brunello 2006, and the Brunello Riserva 2005. The only dissapointment on the table was the Brunello Luce della Vite 2006 Of Castelgiocondo of which was quite tannic and lacking in overall balance.

I pleasant surprise was from Castello Romitorio, who was showing a wonderful wine in the San'Antimo Ross 2006.

This wine was a real winner and a joy to drink. Made up

made up of 60% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo, and 20% Cabernetof Sauvignon, perfectly balance and a joy to drink.

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

ITALIAN WINEMAKERS in NEW YORK

May is seeing a month long invasion of Italian Wine-People, winemakers, producers, property owners. At recent tastings of Lauber Omni Wines Giacomo Neri of Casanova Neri of Montalcino was spotted pouring his latest great Brunello releases of Casanova ner's base Brunello and single vineyard "Tenuta Nuova"

Lucinda Vietti of "Viett" famed Cru Barolo producer was on hand at the Marriot in Times Square pouring not the famed Barolo's like "Brunate" and "Lazzarito," but Vietti's excellent examples of Barbera, Roer Arneis, and Moscato di Asti. Lucinda is one of Peidmonte's most charming
Wine-Ambassadors, a lovely lady.
Another charming lady of Italian Wine, from Tuscany is Emanuela Stuchhi Prenetti of "Badia a Coltibuono" was at the Marriot Tasting as well. Emanuella was pouring and talking about Badia Coltibuono's famed Chianti. On hand at the Coltibuono table was "Centemura," Chianti Classico 2006, and Chianti Classico Riserva 2005. Emanuell chatted with Daniel Bellino Zwicke about the estate and the wines, of which the estate of Coltibuono are one of the properties that still produces true "Traditional Chianti." True "Traditional Chianti" being Chianti that is made only of "Native" grape varietals, "No Merlot," "Cabernet Sauvignon" or any other International Grape Varieties, which to the "Shame" of the Chianti Consorzio and the Italian Goverment have been allowing intot the Chianti Blend for more than 10 years now. This is "Sacreligous" and a down-right "Sin" to Chianti the
"Chianti Classico" region, Italian-Wine and the Wine World, "Merlot, Cabernet, and International Grapes" should be banned from Chianti, "If you want to make wine with these varietals in Tuscany, fine! Don't call it Chianti, these winess should be labeled IGT, Rosso, Super Tuscan.

Back to Emanuella and Coltibuono. Coltibuono, "Real Chianti" Chianti of course is made primarily of Sangiovese with small percentages of minor blending grapes. It is these minor blending grapes of which the native ones are; Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia Nero, and Ceilegolo that make up the rest of the "Chianti Blend." Back in 1996 when the laws were changed, the italian gov't and Chianti Consorzio permited Merlot and Cabernet into the blend as well as stating that Chiant could be made with soley 100% Sangiovese, which traditonally is not Chianti as well. Besides being mostly made of Sangiovese, "Chianti" should always be a blend and contain at least one other native grape besides Sangiovese.

The Chianti's of Badia Coltibuono only use native grapes. in addition to Sangiovese, their Chianti contains Cainaiolo and Colorinot, "Bravo," "True Chiant," all other Chianti producers should follow suite. "Do not put Merlot or Cabernet in your Chianti, "It is no longer Chianti if you do so. Us e those grapes to make a IGT wine. " "Basta." !!!!

Marchesi Ferdinando Frescobaldi says great Wine is, "Up to God"

Daniel Bellino Zwicke, one of the countries foremost authorities on Italian Wine enjoys a Wine Tasting Luncheon with the "Marchesi Ferdinando Frescobaldi" and others. They drank Frescobaldi Pomino Bianc, Nipozzano Chianti, Brunello, and Super Tuscan wine, while enjoying an assortment of Salumi Misti of Salami, Mortadella, Coppa, and Prosciutto di Parma. Ciro made some delicious Rigatoni with Tomato and Giaunciale. They ate homemade Cannoli for desert accompanied by some of the "Marchesi Fresobaldi's" superb nectar of "Vin Santo."

Emanuela Stucci Prinetti talks about CHIANTI

Emanuella Stucchi Prinetti of Badia Coltibuono talks about Chianti and does a very nice job. Let me expand on the subject a little here, and I will continue and get more indept at a later date. Number 1 is that Emanuella did not mention the grape varietals of Chianti. First and foremost Chianti is made primarily of the Sangiovese grape varietal. When the formula for Chianti was laid down by the Barone Ricasoli more than 130 yhears ago, Chianti was called to be made of primarily Sangiovese and blended with small qualities of other native varietals such as Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia Nero, and Trebbiano. Chianti was from the beginning historicaly a bleded wine that has always be made mostly of Sangiovese with the previously mentioned native minor blending grape varietals.