Lino Maga is a legendary figure who dedicated his life to promote the promising hills of Oltrepò Pavese, standing firm against the dominance of intensive agriculture and quantity-driven approaches.
His passing in 2021 marked the end of an era, but his son Giuseppe is committed to preserving his father's rich legacy. We feel privileged to present Lino’s final vintage, a testament to a man who dedicated his everything to both the land and the art of winemaking in Lombardy.
The Maga family’s winery, established in 1896, honors Lino's uncle Carlo through its name, Barbacarlo, a term derived from the local Pavese dialect. This vineyard is not simply another plot of land; it boasts old vines of over eighty years and is home to Lino’s extraordinary winemaking journey, which included more than 80 harvests. Barbacarlo encompasses 4 hectares of rugged tufa soil situated at 300 meters altitude in Broni, with steep slopes reaching 70%. Lino cherished this vineyard, treating it as a precious ancestral gift, and eschewed synthetic products both in the vineyard and the cellar. While discussions of crus were uncommon in Italy at the time, Lino aspired for Barbacarlo to be recognized as a grand cru site within the Oltrepò Pavese DOC—a recognition that remains pending, contributing to Lino's exclusion from the consortium.
The cornerstone grape varieties at Barbacarlo—Croatina, Uva Rara, and Vespolina—reflect the rustic and terroir-driven essence of the Oltrepò region. Lino's approach to winemaking was marked by a rebellious spirit, focusing on authenticity rather than conforming to conventional wine standards, allowing the expression of each vintage to shine through. This results in wines that vary tremendously in structure and flavor profiles, with the presence or absence of carbon dioxide and residual sugar altering from year to year. Each bottle tells a unique story—whether it be extraordinary, mediocre (which Lino often chose not to bottle), or the more challenging years like 2014.
Maga's wines are crafted through natural fermentation and the use of indigenous yeasts, with no clarification or filtration involved. Barbacarlo, along with its slightly smaller counterpart Montebuono, is renowned for its remarkable longevity, with some bottles aging gracefully for over 30 years. Lino's generous spirit often led him to conduct breathtaking vertical tastings of his prized wines, tracing back to the 1980s. Fermentation takes place in traditional oak and chestnut vats, which have been carefully preserved over the years. The wines are typically bottled while still “alive”—just at the point where fermentation is dormant.
Barbacarlo's mysteriousness makes it a fascinating choice for any wine enthusiast.
- Producer: Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo (Lino Maga).
- Region:
- Why It's Special:
- Cult Following: Has a dedicated global following, especially in Japan.
- Natural Purity: A staunchly traditional producer resisting modern additives and bureaucracy, notes MCF Rare Wine.
- Unique Texture: The partial fermentation at bottling creates a natural sparkle, adding vibrancy.
- Terroir-Driven: Captures the specific limestone and spirit of its hillside vineyard
