Chianti Report

 

CASTELLO VERRAZANO

BARRELL CELLAR

GREVE in CHIANTI 

VILLA CALCINAIA

CONTI CAPPONI 

GREVE 

VILLA CALCINAIA

DRIVEWAY

GREVE in CHIANTI

Author ITALIAN WINE GUY

DANIEL BELLINO ZWICKE

LUNCH with CONTI CAPPONI 

NICOLA & SEBASTIANO CAPPONI

1997

CHIANTI PRIMER

by AGNUS 

Map - CHIANTI CLASSICO REGION

Including TOWNS of :  GREVE, PANZANO, RADDA

CASTELLINA in CHIANTI,  GAIOLE

OTHER CHIANTI REGIONS of TUSCANY

CHIANTI RUFFINA

CHIANTI FIROENTINI

CHIANTI PISANE

CHIANTI MONTESPERTOLI

CHIANTI MONTALBANO

TUSCANT, ITALY

SANGIOVESE GRAPES

CHIANTI CLASSICO

On CHIANTI

CHIANTI

ITALIAN FOOD & TRAVELS

ROME VENICE TUSCANY PIZZA PASTA & ???

READ ABOUT DANIEL'S ADVENTURES

 in CHIANTI CLASSICO

AMAZON.com

LUNCH WITH The COUNTS

CONTI CAPPONI NICOLA CAPPONI

And CONTE SEBASTIANO CAPPONI 

At VILLA CALCINAIA

GREVE in CHIANTI

1997

"LUNCH at VILLA CALCIANAIA"

The CONTI CAPPONI

 The first time I was ever in Chianti was the most memorable. Yes, I’ve had many wonderful days in Chianti, but nothing like that first day. I was in the process of putting together my restaurant Bar Cichetti, and this was another exploratory trip. I didn’t have the wine connections that I would garner in later years, knowing so many Italian wine producers that I do these days.

 Some friends set up two vineyard visits in Chianti Classico for me, my business partner, an associate of ours, and the lady Gilda who set up our meeting the Conti Capponi, and visiting the Capponi family estate - Villa Calcinaia in Greve. In the Capponi family, there are two brothers, Count Sebastaiano Capponi & his brother Nicolo. We were in Florence and had to meet Nicolo at their palazzo - Palazzo Capponi on the Arno River, just two feet from the Ponte Vecchio Bridge. Our friend Gilda is a good friend of the Capponi’s and she brought us to the Palazzo and introduced us to Conti Nicolo Capponi. When we met, I thought I was talking to Prince Charles. Nicolo was brought up with a British nanny and was educated in England, and thus when specching in English, he had an English accent. I was quite surprised when I met him. Anyway, we hopped in two cars, and drove down to Grave and the Cappoli Family wine estate - Villa Calcinaia in Greve. You take the ancient Roman road known as the Chiantigiana south out of Florence and into the heart of the Chianti Classico wine region. 

   We made a right, turning off the Chiantigiana road and onto the Capponi property. And just like you see in the movies, the drive leading to the Villa was tree lined on both sides of the road with majestic Cypress Trees. “Wow,” I was blown away. We arrived at the Villa, a sort of small castle, and it was lovely. The Capponi family has owned this property since 1524. The current structure of the Villa Calcinaia was built in the 1700s. Quite a place to be, and I was in awe. Nicolo took us inside. We entered the kitchen, which looked much the same as it did 300 years before. A lady was cooking at the fireplace. She was the family cook, and Nicolo introduced us to her. We chatted for a few minutes, and then Nicolo took us on a tour of the cellars. We left the kitchen and walked down a hallway, and as we approached one room, Nicolo said, “here we have Alibaba.” He was referring to the beautiful large terracotta vats that were filled with Olive Oil. Wow?

Then Nicolo said, “this is the Mother. It’s 300 years old.” Wow, again. The 300 year old mother is a starter to make vinegar. And it’s 300 years old. 

  Besides making wonderful Chianti wine, the Capponi family produces Tuscan Olive Oil, vinegar, Grappa, and Vin Santo wine. 

   Nicolo then took us to another room where white grapes were drying on racks. These grapes were for the Vin Santo, which must be dried before vinifying in order to make that “lush nectar,” that is Vin Santo (Holy Wine).

    After seeing the grapes for the Vin Santo, Nicolo took us into the main cellar room where the family’s fine Chianti was aging in numerous large Slovenian Ok Casks. “Wow,” again. It made me feel amazing. Being there in the storied wine cellars of The Villa Calcinaia, in the heart of Chianti Classico. “Wow?” 

   Nicolo got a few glasses and opened a small spout on the cask, to draw some wine from. He then gave us each a glass, and we tasted the wine. “The Chianti.” It was marvelous, and so special, to do a barrel tasting of some Capponi Family Chianti. Quite remarkable. 

  Nicolo’s brother Sebastiano came into the seller, and that’s when we first met. Sebastiano has been running the winery since 1992. We met him that day in 1997, and I’ve known him ever since. He comes to New York often, to do tasting and attend Chianti events in New York, and do business promoting and selling his family;s wine. And me being in the Italian restaurant business for many years, I’ve spent time drinking wine and breaking bread with Sebastiano. His brother Nicolo is a writer and scholar, and not that involved in the wine business, as Sebastaino. I’ve never seen Nicolo in New York, though Sebastiano, I have many times over the years, and it is always a great pleasure to see him.

   From the cellars, Nicolo took us outside to show us the gardens and vineyards. Quite beautiful. The to the Grand Finale of the day.

  Nicolo took us to the dining room, where we were going to have lunch with the Conti Capponi brothers Sebastiano & Nicolo Capponi. Wow, can you believe that? Me Danie Bellino, dining with two Counts of one of Florence’s oldest and most noble families, The Capponi’s of Florence, Italy. And at the wine estate in Greve, Chianti Classico, Italy. How did I ever get here? Well it was a lot of hard work, and long hours working and educating myself, that found me here, having lunch with The Conti Capponi, at Villa Calcinaia, breaking bread, and drinking their Chianti, with two aristocratic, noble gentleman Conti Sebastiano Capponi and his brother Nicolo, Gilda, Maron, and Tom.

   The meal was simple, and delicious. We had Tuscan Pecorino, Salami, bread, and olives for antipasto. So good. There’s nothing like tasty Italian Cheese and local Salami. Drinking Capponi family wine (Chianti) with the Capponi’s themselves, inside an ancient dining room in the Villa Calcainaia. I dipped my bread into the lush Olive Oil. This olive oil is some of the World’s finest. Yes it sounds cliche, but “It doesn’t get any better than this.” Not by a long shot. The antipasto was so good, I can still taste the Pecorino and Salami today, just thinking about it. 

   The antipasto was followed by a simple Pici Pomodoro, fresh homemade pasta in a tasty tomato sauce. We drank more Chianti. I was in “7th Heaven.” This was one of the most memorable days in my entire life. And still, almost 30 years later in 2025.

   For the main course, we had roast chicken that we had watched the cook begin to cook over an open fire in the old kitchen. The chicken was served with roast potatoes. We kept drinking Chianti.

   The Grand Finale of the meal was the Capponi’s Vin Santo, served with Biscotti. What can I say about Vin Santo? It was like putting the cherry on top as they say. We had the most wonderful meal, but if that wasn’t enough, one more wonderful thing was added. The Vin Santo. Vin Santo is a special wine of Tuscany. It is made in limited production. It is a lush flavorful wine, with a taste of apricots, hazelnuts, dried fruit, and caramel. It is brought out to drink on special occasions, and this was one. Having opened America’s 1st Venetian Wine Bar - Bar Cichetti, for doing so, I became a darling of the Italian Wine World. When we first opened Bar Cichetti, all the Italians coming to New York wanted to meet me for what I was doing. I had a love and passion for wine, as well as good knowledge, which grew year by year. And year by year, I made more and more relationships with Italian wine people. Estate owners and winemakers, and those prominent in the World of Italian Wine. I’ve been invited to many special Italian Wine Dinners, luncheons, tasting, and events. I’ve visited many wine estates all over Italy, and have become friends with the owners, and their families. And to this day, though I have had so many special times, till this day, none tops my first Italian Wine experience in Italy, meeting and having lunch with the Conti Capponi. “A very special day.” 

    Basta!

Excerpted from ITALIAN FOOD & TRAVELS

Daniel Bellino Zwicke - Amazon.com

 

DANIEL BELLINO & CHIANTI

Daniel Bellino Zwicke

 is a best-selling Italian-American cookbook author, food historian, and wine expert based in New York City. He is currently working on a specialized book titled Chianti (working title), which explores the wine, region, and food of Chianti Classico. 

Chianti Projects and Expertise

As an authority on Italian wine with over 30 years of experience, Bellino Zwicke frequently writes about the Chianti region on his blog, Bellino on Vino.  

Current Book Project: He is developing a new book focused on the Chianti region, covering its historical significance, the specifics of Chianti Classico, and local culinary pairings.

• CHIANTI WINE PRIMER : He has authored various guides and articles, such as the "Chianti Wine Primer," which assists readers in understanding different vintages and producers.
• REGIONAL CONNECTIONS : Bellino maintains close relationships with prominent Chianti producers, including the Conti Capponi of Villa Calcinaia and Castello Verrazzano. 
• 
  
• Notable Published Books
• Bellino Zwicke has authored several Amazon  Best-Sellers that blend recipes with cultural history, including: 

Sunday Sauce: A long-running #1 best-seller in the Italian Cookbook category.

• The Feast of the 7 Fish: A guide to the traditional Italian-American Christmas Eve Feast.
• Grandma Bellino’s Italian Cookbook: A collection of family Sicilian recipes.
• Positano The Amalfi Coast: A combination travel guide and cookbook.
• Got Any Kahlua? (The Big Lebowski Cookbook): A thematic, pop-culture-inspired cookbook. 

• WINE DIRECTOR : Wine Director - BAR CICHETTI & RISTORANTE BARBETTA, New York, America's greatest Italian Wine List.
• NewYork.Italian Instagram page, with over 500,000 followers.

VILLA CALCINAIA

CONTI CAPPONI

CHIANTI

Author DANIEL BELLINO ZWICKE

With CAVALIERI LUIGI CAPPELINI

of CASTELLO VERRAZANO

"TASTING Some TASTY CHIANTI"

NEW YORK NY

.

Bellino on Chianti

CHIANTI

VILLA CALCINAIA

GREVE

Chianti! Chianti is Sacred Nectar of the Gods. Being so, Chianti should thus be treated accordingly to its exalted status, being deserved of society’s highest accolades that is Chianti’s due. Since its creation by the Baron Ricasoli in the 1870’s, Chianti has been held in the highest esteem and prestige. In its existence it has had a bit of a bumpy road in terms of quality and prestige for a portion of its history. This bumpy road or shall we say low-point for Chianti took place around the early 1960’s and into the late 1970’s, a period of about twenty-years. The Chianti of Chianti Classico in these years was pretty much; thinned-out, characterless, commercial wine of quantity rather than quality. It was all about producing as much wine per acre, that was possible, with pretty much a disregard for quality, large quantities of insipid, weak nondescript wines instead of wines with proper concentration, substance, and character. At the time (1960-1981), this was pretty much the case for most wines of Italy, not just Tuscany and the region of Chianti Classico. This being said, there was always a small percentage of top quality producers that never strayed to the negative side. These producers (wine estates) always produced good top-level wine outside of the majority of those producing a inferior product (Chianti). It’s just that at the time, the majority of the Italian wine industry was going for the money. It was more profitable to produce higher quantities of inferior wine, than to produce smaller amounts of higher quality Chianti, and so this is the way thing went for some time. Most likely it was not just that those making Chianti in this low-period may have wanted to make better quality Chianti, but the market which included the United States as the primary customer, along with Italians in Italy didn’t expect it. Once some estates started turning out lower quality Chianti, there was a snowball affect and so it seems, most Americans buying Chianti in the 50s, 60, and 1970s just expected Chianti at a cheaper price, of acceptable quality, and in the ubiquitous straw-wrapped wine-flask that was Chianti at the time was famous for, cheap and in its expected Straw Bottle. This is what the larger Chianti buying public, and even if there was higher quality Chianti, and there was some, most consumers just wanted the cheap stuff. One of the most influential figures in the history of Chianti is the Italian statesman, Bettino Ricasoli who created the Chianti recipe that would later be canonized in DOC regulations. The Ricasoli family traces their lineage in the Chianti region to Lombard barons who ruled during the 11th century. The family estate in Brolio is located in what is now known as the heart of the Chianti Classico region in the province of Siena. Orphaned at a young age, his family estate was crippled with debt and in disarray shortly after Ricasoli got married. Restoring the estate and its vineyard became his primary focus. Ricasoli traveled throughout France and Germany, studying the latest winemaking methods and brought back with him vine cuttings of new grape varieties. He began to experiment in his vineyard and cellar on which grapes produced the best wines at his estate. His work eventually settled on a blend of three Tuscan grapes-Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Malvasia.

CASTELLO BROLIO

The BIRTHPLACE of CHIANTI

   I myself am on, and have been on a personal quest to have the laws governing how Chianti can be made. If I could make Chianti, what would I do? How would I make it? What style, thick and concentrated, thin and light, or somewhere in-between? Would I allow non-traditional secondary grapes of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot? “Certainly not! That would be most sacrilegious.” Number one, in molding what many consider to be a real and true classic Chianti, “you never ever allow, Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah or any grapes that are not native or traditional to the Chianti Classico zone into the mix (the blend of Chianti). As anyone who know a little about Chianti, they know that the primary grape of this storied wine is Sangiovese and from the beginning Chianti has always been a wine made with a blend of 3 or 4 native grape varietals with the primary grape being Sangiovese with small amounts of native grapes making up the remainder of an estates Chianti Classico. The secondary grapes to the primary grape of Sangiovese (75-100%) should only be either; Canaiolo, Colorino, Ciliegiolo, Trebbiano, or Malvasia Bianco, or Malvasi Nero, with any of these grapes being added singularly or in any combination the vintner chooses. The percentage of white grapes allowed since 1984 is a maximum of 6% as opposed to the once ridiculous about of 30% in the sixties and seventies. The allowance of up to 30% white grapes was the major factor in bringing about the bad reputation that Chianti garnered during those dismal years when the quantity of wine made (bulk) was favored over quality in smaller numbers of production in much of Italy. Luckily there were producers like the Antinori family who started making great wines in the Chianti Classico zone which could not be labeled under the Chianti D.O.C. but as Vin di Tavola (the lowest designation, though these wines were of Superior quality), in the wines; “Solaia” which was made primarily of Cabernet Sauvignon with about 20% Sangiovese and “Tignanello” which was made of 100% Sangiovese in its first vintage in 1971. After the first vintage of Tignanello a percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (15-20%) was added a couple years later and Tignanello became and was designated a Vino di Tavola which most people know as Super Tuscan. So that very first vintage of the now famous Super Tuscan wine called Tignanello, was originally classified as a Chianti Classico. The Marchese Piero Antinori began making Tignanello in the Chianti Classico region along with “Sassicia” from his vineyard on the Tuscan coast of Bolgerhi. These wines were instrumental in elevating the wines of Tuscany, in that by making these high quality wines and inspiring other producers to do the same. So, the act of making exceptional quality wines in and around the Chianti region, which were not Chianti’s but Super Tuscans, was the factor that sparked the beginning of better and better Chianti’s over time.

   The last two dates of 1984 and 1996 in which we see the governing bodies changing the laws governing the production of Chianti. These laws forced producers to make better Chianti. These laws which allowed producers to completely eliminate white varietals from Chianti and not allowing more than 6% white grapes was the main factor to improving quality in the wine, while at the same time allowing up to 15% of other varieties such as Merlot or Cabernet and the allowance of making a Chianti from 100% Sangiovese, thus allowing a Chianti that is not a blended wine, if a producer so chose to make Chianti in this fashion. These two new amendments gave way to radically changing what a Chianti was, now, what many believe to be more of a Super Tuscan than a true Chianti. Chianti’s made of solely 100% Sangiovese or those made with 10 to 15 percent Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon would lose much of the general character that a “True Chianti” should have in order for it to really be Chianti and not just to say it is Chianti when it really is not. It’s really a Super Tuscan, which is fine, just to label it, or say that it is Chianti, when it really is not. I must admit that at the time the laws first allowed the addition of these International varieties, I was quite excited and thought that this was a great thing for Chianti. It wasn’t. I was wrong. I quickly changed my mind about what true Chianti really is, and not a wine that has substantial parts Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon instead of what they should have, which are the tradition Chianti sub-varietals of Canniolo, Colorino, Malvasia, or Trebbiano. As I tasted these new wines and at the same time started learning a great deal more about Italian wine, I soon discovered that the Chianti’s that had either Merlot or Cabernet tasted completely different. “They didn’t taste like Chianti!” They didn’t have the wonderful rustic characters of true Chianti. They taste more like wines from California, instead of having the characteristics from the “Terroir” of where they came from.

“Chianti Classico”, “Chianti Rufina”, “Colli Sienesi”, or “Colli Fiorentina”. Fortunately most producers making Chianti do not put Merlot or Cabernet in the bottles they label Chianti, most use Canaiolo or Colorino as the secondary grape. Wine estates that grow Merlot, Cabernet, or Syrah, generally use these varieties to make “Super Tuscan” wines which are much more profitable as they can get much higher prices on the wholesale and retail markets for these wines. To myself and other Italian Wine Geeks, if wine has Merlot or Cabernet in it, it’s a “Super Tuscan” not a Chianti and should be labeled as such as these grape varietals used, even in smaller percentages of only 5 to 10 percent are still powerful enough as to substantially change the character of what is supposed to be “Chianti”. These wines become something else, they become “Super Tuscans” and should be labeled as such (as far as I’m concerned)and not as Chianti which as the laws stand now they can be called Chianti. I am on a personal crusade to have the laws changed once again, which would eliminate non-native varietals from the Chianti blend.    One of the new parameters of making Chianti is that it can be made solely of 100% Sangiovese. This is the other part of laws governing Chianti which should be changed. As in its long tradition, Chianti was always a blend of grapes with Sangiovese making up the greatest part of the mix. Chianti was and always should be a blended wine, it should not be allowed to be made solely of Sangiovese, then again it’s a Super Tuscan not Chianti if you have a truly traditionalist mind towards Chianti. Chianti, when it was originated in the 1870’s by the Baron Bettino Ricasoli was a wine made of a blend of native grapes of the region of Chianti. The original Chianti made by Ricasoli was a blended wine made mostly of Sangiovese as the primary grape with small portions of Trebbiano and Cannaiolo. Until the lastest laws of 1996 which laid down the parameters of how Chianti could be made as a blend and it can also be made of purely 100% Sangiovese. Chianti made of just 100% Sangiovese is not quite true Chianti as well. I love Sangiovese. It is my favorite grape varietal in the World, but as well, Chianti was always a blended wine with Sangiovese as the primary grape varietal. Chianti was a blended wine for well over 100 years. With the latest laws, Chianti can be a made purely of Sangiovese. Some wines that are made of 100% Sangiovese and are known as Super Tuscans are; “Prunaio”, “I Sodi San Niccolo”, “Cipresso”, Le Pergole Torta among many others. They are wonderful wines that fall into the Super-T category as any wine made in the Chiati Classico Zone should be. Chianti should always be a blend, even if it is only 1% or 2% of another native grape, which should be Canaiolo, Colorino, Ciliegiolo, Trebbianno, or Malvasia Bianco, or Malvasia Nero. The white varietals should not exceed more than 2% of the blend. This is how the new laws governing the production of Chianti would be laid down if it was up to me and others who are traditionalist and want Chianti to always adhere to its original form. “Real Chianti!” The wines should have fairly low yields of grapes harvested, but not so low as to produce super-concentrated rich wines that are more like blockbuster California Cabs or Super Tuscan powerhouses. This is not what Chianti is about. Chianti should be a have a certain amount of concentration and at the same time maintain its wonderful rustic character with Cherry and Sour Cherry flavors dominating with a touch of spice and earthiness. Chianti should be an easy drinking medium to lower-scale-full-bodied wine. Chianti should always maintain the tradition of being a blended wine with Sangiovese making up the great the majority of its physical make-up. It should never be solely made from 100% Sangiovese but contain at least 2% of one, two, or three of the traditional native sub-varietal grapes of Chianti Classico and never Merlot, Cabernet, Syhrah or other International variety. If I could set these laws as the new DOCG laws of Chianti Classico the laws would never have to be changed again. The laws, the way they are set today are a little too broad. One thing that is good in the way the laws stand now is that they do allow for a proper Chianti to be made, and most Chianti’s are made in this manner, but at the same time they allow for non-native varieties and the allowance of 100% Sangiovese. These last two regulations must be changed for all Chianti’s to be “True Chianti”. It is as simple as that! So, let us hope that one day in the near future, these laws will be laid down and every single bottle labeled Chianti is actually real, true Chianti that lives up to this great wines history and origins.      Chianti Classico. What is it? First off, the area came first, the wine Chianti Classico is name after the area it comes from, which is Chianti. The Chianti Classico is the most famous. It stretches from just a few miles south of Florence at its most northern tip and runs down almost 30 miles to Castelnuovo Beradenga at its most southern point. As Chianti grew in popularity and fame, a number of other regions where Chianti can be made developed. Some of these areas are Cooli Fiorentini, Colli Senesi, Colli Arentini, and Rufina. None of these sub areas have ever gained anywhere near the fame as thee original Chianti Classico Zone. The Chianti Zone of Rufina, just outside Florence is the most prestigious zone apart from Chianti. These Chianti’s are of the highest quality. Three very well know producers in this area are Frescobaldi, Selvapiana, and Rufino and although the zone of Rufina is not as well known as the Chianti Classico zone, the zone of Rufina does have thee most famous Chianti of all, Rufino’s Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale (Gold Label).    So in closing, let us say that we hope the laws that govern the making of Chianti Classico will be changed some day. I think it is sure to happen. It would be best if it happens sooner than later, that in the making of Chianti, there shall be no Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syhrah or any other non-native or non-traditional grape varieties of Chianti Classico. Also the laws should be changed to eliminate 100% Sangiovese Chianti’s, Chianti should always be a blend.    The region of Chianti Classico is one of the World’s most beautiful wine regions, if not the most beautiful. It is enchanting, filled with castles, all forms of wine estates from small and simply to big and majestic. The beautiful rolling hills of Chianti are filled with Cypress trees that dot the crest of many a hill, along with rugged stone farm houses and the wondrous rows     Sangiovese vines lining the gently sloping hills.      Chianti is relatively untouched or spoiled by any type of ugly modern structures. The Chiantigiana road is still the ancient one built by the Romans and its pavement blends in perfectly with its untouched surroundings. Chianti is filled with lovely little towns like Castellina, Gaile, Greve, and Radda where you will find the famous Dante quoting butcher Dario Cechini. You can visit and stay in beautiful wine estates like Fattoria Valle, Castello Verazzano in Greve where the explorer Giovani Verazzano is from. You can stay at the beautiful estate of Vignamaggio where Gioconda lived and was painted my Michael Angelo. She is “Mona Lisa.”    Chianti, it’s not just a wine. “It’s a Place, a very beautiful place!”

CHIANTI AGING in BARRELS

at CASTELLO VERRAZZANO

GREVE in CHIANTI

.

Author Daniel Bellino-Zwicke

with The Owner of Castello Verrazzano

Caveliere Luigi Cappellini

.

SUNDAY SAUCE

Daniel Bellino Zwicke

  .

VILLA CALCINAIA

CONTI CAPPONI

GREVE

 

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Road Leading to Villa Calcinaia

Conti Capponi

Greve in Chianti





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Having Lunch with The CONTI CAPPONI

VILLA CALCINAIA

GREVE in CHIANTI

.                                   A LIST of TRUE CHIANTI’S made primarily with Sangiovese with small amounts of native sub-varities such as Canaiolo, Malvasia Nero, Colorino, and Ciliegiolo and not containing any Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syhrah, or any Intl. Varieties.   Monsanto “Il Poggio” Chianti Classico Riserva Castello Verazzano Chianti Classico Castello Brolio Chainti Classico Reserva Vignamaggio Chinati Classico Riserva “Mona Lisa” Rufino Chianti Classico Riserva “Ducale” (Gold Label) Selvapiana Chianti Rufina

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    .  

MANGIA ITALIANO

MEMORIES of ITALIAN FOOD






"IF I MADE CHIANTI"

Daniel Bellino Zwicke

CHIANTI ???

CASTELLO VERRAZZANO

"REAL CHIANTI"

If I could make Chianti, what would I do? How would I make it? What style, thick and concentrated, thin and light, or somewhere in-between? Would I include non-traditional secondary grapes of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot? “Certainly not! That would be most sacrilegious.” Well, for sure, I would make a true, authentic Chianti as Chianti is intended to be as set forth more than 130 years ago when Bettino Ricasolo created Chianti and set forth the formula of Chianti being a wine of the a blend of “Native Chianti Classico Grapes.” 

In this wine “Chianti” the blend was to include as a must a majority of the most famous and cherished of all Tuscan grapes, “Sangiovese.” With Chianti made of primarily Sangiovese as well as complementary native grapes in small percentages which included : Canaiolo, Cielegiolo, Colorino, Mammolo, Malvasia Nero, Malvasia Bianco, and or Trebbiano. Yes this is what true and Real Chianti should be, a wine based on the original and traditional recipe for Chianti, created by the Baron Ricasoli and made just as the creator stated for some 100 years. In the past 40 years two things happened that has gotten Chianti off track to what it was originally and should always be. The first thing, was that back in the 1960 and 1970 many in this most famous of all Italian Wine zones were making Chianti purely for profit without any regard for the traditions and quality of the wine. Many of the producers of Chianti grew high yields of inferior grapes simply to gain a higher gross amount of fruit and juice to make the wine. The governmental powers that be went along with these detrimental practices traded off for higher profits. The Chianti Consorzio allowed for large numbers of White Grape Varietals into the Chianti blend which while making the wine more profitable in sales, had the negative affect of making thinned out inferior wine, if any particular producer (maker of Chianti) chose to go the “High Profit low Quality” route. Some did, but Thank God not all. Many had pride and would not produce an inferior but Superior Chianti.

Finally in 1984, the laws governing what Chianti (The Formula) could and could not be were changed in order to set Higher Standards, making Chianti a Great Quality Wine and eliminating the facts that allowed producers to make Poor Quality wine if they so choose to. They could not anymore. The rules for making Chianti which allowed for the possibility to produce inferior Chianti were eliminated. White grape varietals such as Trebbiano and Malvasia Bianco in large quantities were no longer permitted into any wine labeled Chianti. Bravo! If the laws governing the production of Chianti had stayed like this, it would have been a great thing, and all Chianti would be of a high quality and of Long Standing Native Traditions and practices. Chianti was and would be a excellent quality wine that was and tasted as it should, like “Chianti.”

Unfortunately the governing bodies of the Italian Government and Chianti Consorzio did something atrocious in the year 1996. Once again they changed the laws on making Chianti. They made a “Terrible Blunder,” in the name of what they said was to be a better Chianti, they allowed for the use of International grapes such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syhrah. And they allowed for up to 20% of these other grape varietals with the primary grape of Sangiovese being a minimum of 80% to 100% at the producers' discretion and desire as to how each individual Estate wanted to make their Chianti. These laws made for a wide range in latitude of Chianti as a whole. Allowing for Chianti that if it had 10% or more of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, it would completely change the character of Chianti for those estates that chose to use amounts of even 5% or more of Merlot or Cabernet.

Thank God there was in this large range of latitude in the laws of what was aloud in Chianti and in what percentages, so what we end up is a wide range of different Chianti styles. Not Good! 

So the laws did allow for Chianti to be made in the traditional and proper manner of Sangiovese as the primary grape with small amounts of other native grapes, to end up with Chianti that taste like Chianti. Thank God for that.

Now this all being said the laws for making Chianti also included latitudes for making what can be labeled Chianti and wines that are labeled as Chianti, allowed for wines that do not taste like Chianti. They do not taste like Chianti as they have Merlot and or Cabernet Sauvignon in them. The Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and overpower the more delicate Sangiovese grape, resulting in a wine that does not taste like Chianti, but some kind of Super Tuscan wine or so-called baby Super Tuscan. If you put Merlot or Cabernet into what is supposed to be Chianti, that wine will not have the classic quintessential character that Chianti has, when made in the classic traditional style.  A proper Chianti should be a light to medium body wine, possessing red fruit flavors, with hingts of earthiness and a tad of spice flavor as well.

What a Chianti should not be, is a Big Full Bodied Fruit Bomb wine, nor anything approaching it, as some Reserve Chiantis are these days.

As stated, a Chianti should be light to medium bodied. This does not mean that it should be thin or lack substance. It should definitely have flavor, but in a more subtle and restrained manor which makes the wine go well with the food you are eating and not overpower it as many wines tend to do these days.

If I myself (and my friend Charles Sciccilone) could set these laws as the new DOCG laws of Chianti Classico the laws would never have to be changed again. The laws, the way they are set today are a little too broad. One thing that is good in the way the laws stand now is that they do allow for a proper Chianti to be made, and most Chianti’s are made in this manner, but at the same time they allow for non-native varieties and the allowance of 100% Sangiovese. These last two regulations must be changed for all Chianti’s to be “True Chianti” Non native grapes like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon should never be allowed in Chiant (if it was up to me), and Chianti should always be a blend of mostly Sangiovese (85 to 95%), with 5% to 15% native secondary grapes such as : Colorino, Canaiolo, and or Malvasia Nero, etc.  It is as simple as that! So, let us hope that one day in the near future, these laws will be laid down and every single bottle labeled Chianti is actually real, true Chianti that lives up to this great wines history and origins.

Chianti Classico. What is it? First off, the area came first, the wine Chianti Classico is name after the area it comes from, which is Chianti. The Chianti Classico is the most famous. It stretches from just a few miles south of Florence at its most northern tip and runs down almost 30 miles to Castelnuovo Berardenga at its most southern point. As Chianti grew in popularity and fame, a number of other areas in Tuscany where Chianti can be made, were developed. Some of these areas are Colli Fiorentini, Colli Senesi, Colli Arentini, and Rufina. None of these sub areas have ever gained anywhere near the fame as the original Chianti Classico Zone. The Chianti Zone of Rufina, just outside Florence is the most prestigious zone outside of Chianti Classico, when it comes to Chianti. The three most well know producers in the Chianti Rufina zone are : Frescobaldi, Selvapiana, and Castello Trebbio.  And although the zone of Rufina is not as well known as the Chianti Classico zone.

So in closing, let us say that we hope the laws that govern the making of Chianti Classico will be changed some day. Changed for the better, preserving tradition and history of this great Italian Wine. "Please" !!!  Oh, how I wish it would happen. It would be best if it happens sooner than later, that in the making of Chianti, there shall be no Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah or any other non-native or non-traditional grape varieties of Chianti Classico. Also the laws should be changed to eliminate 100% Sangiovese Chianti’s, Chianti should always be a blend, even if just 2% of another native grape such as Colorino, Canaiolo, or Cielegiolo were added. Chianti must always be a blende wine, dominated by mostly Sangiovese (at least 85%) with a smaller percentage of native grapes. The region of Chianti Classico is one of the World’s most beautiful. It is enchanting, filled with castles, all forms of wine estates from small and simply to big and majestic. The beautiful rolling hills of Chianti are filled with Cypress trees that dot the crest of many a hill, along with rugged stone farm houses and the wondrous rows Sangiovese vines lining the gently sloping hills.

Chianti is relatively untouched or spoiled by any type of ugly modern structures. The Chiantigiana road is still the ancient one built by the Romans and its pavement blends in perfectly with its untouched surroundings. Chianti is filled with lovely little towns like Castellina, Gaioli, Greve, and Radda where you will find the famous Dante quoting butcher Dario Cecchini. You can visit and stay in beautiful wine estates like Fattoria Valle, Castello Verazzano in Greve where the explorer Giovani Verazzano is from. You can stay at the beautiful estate of Vignamaggio where Gioconda lived and was painted my Michael Angelo. She is “Mona Lisa.”

Chianti, it’s not just a wine. “It’s a Place, a very beautiful place!”



by DANIEL BELLINO ZWICKE


Below is a Small LIST of TRUE CHIANTI’S made primarily with Sangiovese with small amounts of native sub-varities such as Canaiolo, Malvasia Nero, Colorino, and Celegiolo and not containing any Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syhrah, or any International Varieties “What-so-Ever.”.




Monsanto “Il Poggio” Chianti Classico Riserva

Castello Verazzano Chianti Classico

Castello Brolio Chainti Classico Reserva

Castellow Querceto Chianti Classico

Vignamaggio Chinati Classico Riserva “Mona Lisa”

Rufino Chianti Classico Riserva “Ducale” (Gold Label)

Selvapiana Chianti Rufina

Badia Coltobuono

Daniel Bellino Zwicke

CASTELLO BROLIO

And The BIRTH of CHIANTI

By BARONE RICASOLI

Best Selling Cookbook Author - Wine Travel Writer

Daniel Bellino Zwicke with his Friend Cavalieri Luigi Cappellini

Who makes "REAL CHIANTI" at his Estate CASTELLO VERRAZZANO

GREVE in CHIANTI

The MARCHESE FERDINANDO FRESCOBALDI

With COOKBOOK Author Daniel Bellino Zwicke

And a Bottle of FRESCOBALDI "NIPPOZZANO" CHIANTI RUFINA

POSITANO The AMALFI COAST

TRAVEL GUIDE - COOKBOOK

AMAZON.com

HOTELS WORLDWIDE

BOOKING.com